Neko Harbour, Paradise Bay

Consider for a moment that for every one million people on this remarkable blue-green earth only about four have made it to Antarctica, we among them. We lucky few. No human footsteps precede ours. We are the first expedition ship to the Antarctica Peninsula this season. We follow penguin tracks, leads through the ice, breaks in the weather, the compass in our hearts. We take what we get, and in making new friends and sharing our images and stories, we give what we take. It’s nice.

How small the National Geographic Endeavour appeared this morning from the snowy ridge above Neko Harbour, rimmed by nameless mountains and hanging blue glaciers. Gentoo penguins regarded us with mild indifference as we climbed single file above their nesting colony and dropped to our knees and bellies for photographs. Many of us glissaded down a short but steep snowy slope en route back down to shore, all in good fun.

Afternoon found us in Paradise Bay, a short distance from Neko Harbour (also on the Danco Coast of the Antarctica Peninsula). The winds died down and afforded us a chance to kayak through a wondrous garden of sun-splashed icebergs, growlers and bergy bits. At times the silence was so deep, so profound, that it seemed more of a presence than an absence. Others (who chose not to kayak) cruised about in the Zodiacs. Nobody missed the fun rescue boat, courtesy of the ship’s hotel department, with its captain waving a red-lettered flag: HOT CHOCO. We sidled over. Did the hot chocolate come with a little Bailey’s, or did the Bailey’s come with a little hot chocolate?

And the reflections. We reflected on the reflections, speechless at times, laughing at other times, high on our good fortune that we alone, in this kingdom of ice, so ancient yet new, have a day in Paradise Bay.