St Peter and Paul Rocks
It would significantly blot the copybook of any ship's navigation officer were his vessel to collide with the St Peter and Paul Rocks. At latitude 0º 58' north and longitude 29º 15' west, this cluster of rocks are 540 miles from the coast of South America and considerably further from Africa. One wonders how many ships have foundered on this single dramatic obstacle en route from West Africa to Brazil? It is a route notorious as the "Middle Passage" of the slave triangle, across which a human cargo of some eleven million Africans was transported to the Americas, most of them to Brazil. People of African descent in the Americas today represent one quarter of the population of the African continent, a phenomenon unique in human history.
Charles Darwin, a fierce opponent of the institution of slavery, called here in February 1832. He later noted that the islands did not have the same volcanic origin as other islands of the Atlantic Ridge that he had visited on the voyage. Our staff geologist explained that this is the only place on Earth where the mantle protrudes onto the surface: a veritable Mecca for geologists wielding their hammers. Our approach to the rocks had been heralded by frequent sightings of tropical birds: the noddies and boobies that had delighted Darwin together with the magnificent frigate bird.
Tearing ourselves away from this enchanting spot, we headed for the Equator where our passage was interrupted by King Neptune and his colorful entourage who demanded compliance with various age-old rituals for those trans-hemispherical novices on board who had not taken the precaution of locking themselves in their cabins. Darwin went through the very same process and was surprised at the transformation in character that the ritual effected on the normally stern and unbending Captain FitzRoy who was at the heart of the antics. The festive atmosphere continued into the evening with an asado-style deck dinner, drawing to a close another surprisingly active day at sea.
It would significantly blot the copybook of any ship's navigation officer were his vessel to collide with the St Peter and Paul Rocks. At latitude 0º 58' north and longitude 29º 15' west, this cluster of rocks are 540 miles from the coast of South America and considerably further from Africa. One wonders how many ships have foundered on this single dramatic obstacle en route from West Africa to Brazil? It is a route notorious as the "Middle Passage" of the slave triangle, across which a human cargo of some eleven million Africans was transported to the Americas, most of them to Brazil. People of African descent in the Americas today represent one quarter of the population of the African continent, a phenomenon unique in human history.
Charles Darwin, a fierce opponent of the institution of slavery, called here in February 1832. He later noted that the islands did not have the same volcanic origin as other islands of the Atlantic Ridge that he had visited on the voyage. Our staff geologist explained that this is the only place on Earth where the mantle protrudes onto the surface: a veritable Mecca for geologists wielding their hammers. Our approach to the rocks had been heralded by frequent sightings of tropical birds: the noddies and boobies that had delighted Darwin together with the magnificent frigate bird.
Tearing ourselves away from this enchanting spot, we headed for the Equator where our passage was interrupted by King Neptune and his colorful entourage who demanded compliance with various age-old rituals for those trans-hemispherical novices on board who had not taken the precaution of locking themselves in their cabins. Darwin went through the very same process and was surprised at the transformation in character that the ritual effected on the normally stern and unbending Captain FitzRoy who was at the heart of the antics. The festive atmosphere continued into the evening with an asado-style deck dinner, drawing to a close another surprisingly active day at sea.
