Astoria, Fort Clatsop

A steady mist drifted on light breezes, as the Sea Bird began her approach to Seventeenth street pier just in front of the Columbia River Maritime museum. The previous evening’s passage had brought our vessel, crew and guests to the mouth of the great river of the west, and, the most westerly destination of Lewis and Clark.

Our morning destination of Astoria is the oldest port on the west coast of the United States, established only a few years after Lewis and Clark’s departure in 1806. This small port city is the most westerly meeting place for all interested in the Corp of Discovery’s winter campsite. It would be our goal today to visit the recreation of Fort Clatsop the winter camp sight of Lewis and Clark during the winter and spring of 1805-1806.

Our morning was spent visiting one of America’s greatest maritime museums. Founded in 1962, this museum has recently been renovated for the Bicentennial of Lewis and Clark and the Corp of Discovery. Six galleries, the Great Hall and the Lightship Columbia interpret the Pacific Northwest’s rich maritime history.

Soon, we boarded busses and made a short journey out to Fort Clatsop located on the Lewis and Clark River just west of Young’s Bay, an estuary that feeds into the mouth of the Columbia River. The building we visited is a reproduction of the fort constructed by the Corps of Discovery 199 years ago. Our national park system runs this facility, and after a brief introduction we were able to walk down to the reconstructed fort and visit the very compact quarters that the Corps used for the four months they spent on the Pacific Ocean.

During our exploration of Fort Clatsop, we were introduced to another constant companion to National Park Ranger Jill – Abby, a Newfoundland dog an exact twin to Seaman, Captain Lewis’ companion from St. Louis.

Seaman had been a constant companion to the Lewis and Clark Expedition earning his keep, by drowning antelope and deer on several occasions. He also caught several other wounded animals and returned them to the hunting parties of Lewis and Clark. He was a guard, a companion to the Corp of Discovery and often a usual ambassador too many Indian tribes encountered along the trail. The dogs of the Indigenous peoples of the western territories were in no way comparable in size, color or manner to Seaman, and many Native tribes showed tremendous curiosity about this rather large and constant companion to the Lewis and Clark Expedition.

Our visit to Fort Clatsop was made complete with the presence of Abby. We could all imagine the long wet days spent in Fort Clatsop accompanied by poor relations with local Indigenous peoples, long hunting trips, poor diversity of food, and the constant wet environment all the men lived in; having that loyal pair of brown eyes always watching, always standing by to be of use.