Puerto Gato and the Gulf of California
Mist in the distance rose above the water at a distinct 45 degree angle. As the Captain maneuvered the Sea Lion into the perfect position, Tuesday’s morning sun wrapped its golden light around a spectacular sight: sperm whales. The largest toothed whale, with a distinctive head shape and textured dark gray skin greeted us just off the bow of the ship, while the rest of her pod lingered in the distance. We raised our cameras as our jaws dropped and snapped away at this powerful, yet graceful marine mammal. The adult female lifted her square forehead in a nod, ducked it under the water, arched her wrinkled back, then lifted up, as if in display, the whole length of her tail stock from dorsal bump to fluke. She continued in this rocking motion several times before submerging her head at a steeper angle and flicking her fluke straight up for her terminal dive. The undulating movements, surface oxygenation and dispersion of the pod characterize the feeding habits of the sperm whale, who spent this morning in the deep waters of the San Jose channel feeding on, presumably, Humboldt squid.
After breakfast, we made our way up to Puerto Gato, a beautiful sandy beach cove stretched between dramatic red rock cliffs on the mainland of the Baja peninsula. Here we had the opportunity to participate in a variety of activities, including our first chance to venture out in the kayaks. The winds were picking up, but those of us who faced the challenge received the rewards of gliding on the water’s surface with an eared grebe’s eye view of our environment. We navigated our boats along the coastline, gaining a different perspective of the landscape above us as our fellow shipmates scrambled over the striking red rocks above, and snorkeled amongst the colorful fish below. Explorations on land led guests back into the arroyo, where small blooming treasures lay hidden to the casual eye. We enjoyed the aromatic creosote bush, found only on the peninsula, and delighted in the blooms from two species of cholla cactus, where pink and yellow flowers adorned the barbed spines of this desert plant. One guest turned keen eyes to a trove of bellybutton flowers, only to discover a rare treat: a tiny one and a half inch orange flowered desert mallow, a species that sprouts in Baja only after seasons of heavy rainfall. To witness such vibrant life in a seemingly arid landscape reminded us all once again of the exceptional beauty of this region. Meanwhile, in the water, inquisitive eyes sought out an equally impressive display of color and textures: the bright orange-red sea cucumbers, the silver sheen and black striped sergeant majors, a school of reef cornet fish and the incredible wealth of balloon fish swimming amongst us. We spent a great, active morning in our first full day in the Sea of Cortez. We returned to the ship for lunch, exhausted and content.
The winds continued to pick up, and we spent the remainder of the day thumbing our noses at the swells, enjoying the camaraderie of our shipmates. We made some valiant efforts to stand firm against some undesirable seas, cognizant of the adventure awaiting us in Laguna San Ignacio.
Mist in the distance rose above the water at a distinct 45 degree angle. As the Captain maneuvered the Sea Lion into the perfect position, Tuesday’s morning sun wrapped its golden light around a spectacular sight: sperm whales. The largest toothed whale, with a distinctive head shape and textured dark gray skin greeted us just off the bow of the ship, while the rest of her pod lingered in the distance. We raised our cameras as our jaws dropped and snapped away at this powerful, yet graceful marine mammal. The adult female lifted her square forehead in a nod, ducked it under the water, arched her wrinkled back, then lifted up, as if in display, the whole length of her tail stock from dorsal bump to fluke. She continued in this rocking motion several times before submerging her head at a steeper angle and flicking her fluke straight up for her terminal dive. The undulating movements, surface oxygenation and dispersion of the pod characterize the feeding habits of the sperm whale, who spent this morning in the deep waters of the San Jose channel feeding on, presumably, Humboldt squid.
After breakfast, we made our way up to Puerto Gato, a beautiful sandy beach cove stretched between dramatic red rock cliffs on the mainland of the Baja peninsula. Here we had the opportunity to participate in a variety of activities, including our first chance to venture out in the kayaks. The winds were picking up, but those of us who faced the challenge received the rewards of gliding on the water’s surface with an eared grebe’s eye view of our environment. We navigated our boats along the coastline, gaining a different perspective of the landscape above us as our fellow shipmates scrambled over the striking red rocks above, and snorkeled amongst the colorful fish below. Explorations on land led guests back into the arroyo, where small blooming treasures lay hidden to the casual eye. We enjoyed the aromatic creosote bush, found only on the peninsula, and delighted in the blooms from two species of cholla cactus, where pink and yellow flowers adorned the barbed spines of this desert plant. One guest turned keen eyes to a trove of bellybutton flowers, only to discover a rare treat: a tiny one and a half inch orange flowered desert mallow, a species that sprouts in Baja only after seasons of heavy rainfall. To witness such vibrant life in a seemingly arid landscape reminded us all once again of the exceptional beauty of this region. Meanwhile, in the water, inquisitive eyes sought out an equally impressive display of color and textures: the bright orange-red sea cucumbers, the silver sheen and black striped sergeant majors, a school of reef cornet fish and the incredible wealth of balloon fish swimming amongst us. We spent a great, active morning in our first full day in the Sea of Cortez. We returned to the ship for lunch, exhausted and content.
The winds continued to pick up, and we spent the remainder of the day thumbing our noses at the swells, enjoying the camaraderie of our shipmates. We made some valiant efforts to stand firm against some undesirable seas, cognizant of the adventure awaiting us in Laguna San Ignacio.
