Cabo San Lucas, searching for humpback whales at Gorda Banks
The Sea Lion continued moving with the wind and current, heading south for the tip of the Baja peninsula and the bustling tourist community of Cabo San Lucas. The previous evening's journey had a "bump in the night" feel to it, and with the first light we could see the surge of the Pacific and the Gulf of California pounding the arch, part of the carved granitic rocks that make up Lands End, the tip of a seven-hundred mile long peninsula called Baja. Captain Graves positioned the Sea Lion just inside of Friar Rocks, watching California sea lions, brown pelicans, and boobies – all inhabitants of these well known rocks.
All around our vessel, sports fishing vessels moved rapidly past us, heading out to sea in hopes of fulfilling the dreams of the fishermen on board. Cabo San Lucas has not always been a tourist mecca. Just a short fifty years ago, the only community at the tip of the Baja peninsula was a small sleepy fishing village found at the end of a rugged dirt road. The front doors of many homes lead straight to the sea – in more ways that one! Then in the 1920s, the first fish cannery was constructed at the water's edge near the entrance to the port. So began the slow increase in population to Cabo San Lucas. In the 1950s, sports fishing found Cabo San Lucas; and this small town felt the first impact of tourism from those brave souls who could stand the grueling journey along hundreds of miles of dirt roads that led here. The Trans Peninsular Highway, completed in the 1970s, brought the name Cabo San Lucas to the rest of the world. So began rapid tourist development, extending all around the tip of the Baja peninsular.
As the Sea Lion slowed her approach to the main harbor and began positioning close to her customary dock, we found ourselves surrounded by boats of varying sizes. By 8:00 am we were secured dockside, cleared by the port authorities, and ready for our morning’s activities. We had several options available: birding, our first snorkeling sight, and exploring the somewhat crowded but colorful streets of Cabo San Lucas. Hidden amongst the t-shirt shops and tequila bars, inconspicuously small gallery quality shops could be found, telling the richly diverse and ethnic history that is Mexico, and expressing artistic traditions dating back thousands of years in both design and materials.
We departed from this tourist mecca just as lunch was served. Slowly Captain Graves took the Sea Lion out of the congested harbor and made a left turn heading north into the Gulf of California. All eyes were focused on the waters ahead in search of humpback whales. This southern area of the Gulf of California is a well known winter mating area for these acrobatic baleen whales. Throughout the afternoon we moved through swells just behind large bushy blows characteristic of humpback whales. In the late afternoon a cow-calf pair were spotted, who appeared to have a second escort accompanying them! A large blow was followed by a much smaller one, then a large blow, followed by consecutive dives. Then out of the water a miniature whale leapt, bringing its full body up and out, displaying its large pectoral flippers, obviously making a statement for all to see, and bringing the customary wows from the front deck of the Sea Lion! As the sun made its way towards the horizon, we continued moving slowly north towards Gorda banks and many more wintering humpback whales. We observed many surface activities from flukes to a calm rise for air, to more breaches, a demonstrative expression from the whale, adding wholeheartedly to our expressions of joy across the bow of the Sea Lion…we were in the company of large and very expressive marine mammals while we visited them in their winter Mexican home.
The Sea Lion continued moving with the wind and current, heading south for the tip of the Baja peninsula and the bustling tourist community of Cabo San Lucas. The previous evening's journey had a "bump in the night" feel to it, and with the first light we could see the surge of the Pacific and the Gulf of California pounding the arch, part of the carved granitic rocks that make up Lands End, the tip of a seven-hundred mile long peninsula called Baja. Captain Graves positioned the Sea Lion just inside of Friar Rocks, watching California sea lions, brown pelicans, and boobies – all inhabitants of these well known rocks.
All around our vessel, sports fishing vessels moved rapidly past us, heading out to sea in hopes of fulfilling the dreams of the fishermen on board. Cabo San Lucas has not always been a tourist mecca. Just a short fifty years ago, the only community at the tip of the Baja peninsula was a small sleepy fishing village found at the end of a rugged dirt road. The front doors of many homes lead straight to the sea – in more ways that one! Then in the 1920s, the first fish cannery was constructed at the water's edge near the entrance to the port. So began the slow increase in population to Cabo San Lucas. In the 1950s, sports fishing found Cabo San Lucas; and this small town felt the first impact of tourism from those brave souls who could stand the grueling journey along hundreds of miles of dirt roads that led here. The Trans Peninsular Highway, completed in the 1970s, brought the name Cabo San Lucas to the rest of the world. So began rapid tourist development, extending all around the tip of the Baja peninsular.
As the Sea Lion slowed her approach to the main harbor and began positioning close to her customary dock, we found ourselves surrounded by boats of varying sizes. By 8:00 am we were secured dockside, cleared by the port authorities, and ready for our morning’s activities. We had several options available: birding, our first snorkeling sight, and exploring the somewhat crowded but colorful streets of Cabo San Lucas. Hidden amongst the t-shirt shops and tequila bars, inconspicuously small gallery quality shops could be found, telling the richly diverse and ethnic history that is Mexico, and expressing artistic traditions dating back thousands of years in both design and materials.
We departed from this tourist mecca just as lunch was served. Slowly Captain Graves took the Sea Lion out of the congested harbor and made a left turn heading north into the Gulf of California. All eyes were focused on the waters ahead in search of humpback whales. This southern area of the Gulf of California is a well known winter mating area for these acrobatic baleen whales. Throughout the afternoon we moved through swells just behind large bushy blows characteristic of humpback whales. In the late afternoon a cow-calf pair were spotted, who appeared to have a second escort accompanying them! A large blow was followed by a much smaller one, then a large blow, followed by consecutive dives. Then out of the water a miniature whale leapt, bringing its full body up and out, displaying its large pectoral flippers, obviously making a statement for all to see, and bringing the customary wows from the front deck of the Sea Lion! As the sun made its way towards the horizon, we continued moving slowly north towards Gorda banks and many more wintering humpback whales. We observed many surface activities from flukes to a calm rise for air, to more breaches, a demonstrative expression from the whale, adding wholeheartedly to our expressions of joy across the bow of the Sea Lion…we were in the company of large and very expressive marine mammals while we visited them in their winter Mexican home.
