We left the unique, pristine nature of Fernandina behind to explore a completely different aspect of the Galapagos today, that of the largest human settlement on the islands. The southern slope of Santa Cruz Island is home to some 9000 inhabitants, most of whom are found in the bustling port of Puerto Ayora. This town is also the conservation nerve center of the Galapagos, home to the headquarters of the Galapagos National Park Service (GNPS) and the world-renowned Charles Darwin Research Center (CDRS). In the mid-fifties, a couple of UNESCO biologists, Bowman and Eibl-Eibesfeldt visited the islands, and returned home in a state of alarm about many of the ecological alterations that were occurring in the islands, which were due entirely to the negative impacts of mankind and its domestic species, recently established in this remote place. This started an international movement of conservationists and biologists, which culminated in 1959 with the creation, in Belgium, of the Charles Darwin Foundation for the Galapagos Islands. This international organization had the blessing and invitation of the Ecuadorian government to set up a much-needed research station in the islands, which was finally inaugurated in 1964. In the agreement between the Foundation and the government of Ecuador, it was established that scientists should study the islands and the surrounding seas from any aspect that would help to conserve the unique flora and fauna in their natural environments. Later on, in 1967, the government set up their own representatives in the archipelago, the GNPS, and together the two institutions have done an incredible amount to save the islands from the fate reserved for most remote island groups the world over.

This morning we got to visit arguably the most important ongoing conservation project run by these two institutions: the growth in captivity and repatriation of the Galapagos namesake: the giant tortoise. A really special treat was to see the new arrivals to the program: baby tortoises hatched just this year. It is truly unbelievable to think that these tiny animals, that could fit in the palm of one’s hand, will one day reach the gargantuan size of the wild tortoises we observed later on today in their natural habitat.

On Wednesday nights we remain anchored in Academy Bay until after twelve, so get the chance to entertain guests from town. It is a great pleasure for us to have representatives from the CDRS on board, to elaborate on the amazing work they do for the islands and answer any questions our guests might have. Tonight’s guest on board was Roslyn Cameron, Coordinator of Public Support for the CDRS, and a walking encyclopedia on all that goes on in conservation of Galapagos. It is truly a great feeling to know that here we have a situation that really can be remedied, unlike that in many other parts of our world, and that we, on board Polaris, can take an active part in the solution.