Gisborne Aotearoa New Zealand
Nau mai, Haere mai! This was the welcoming call (karanga) on to the Rongomai marae for the Lindblad guests. Today we experienced a traditional welcome at one of the most important Maori centres in the Gisborne area. Gisborne, is on the East Coast of New Zealand’s North Island, a place where Maori, the indigenous people of Aotearoa (New Zealand), make up a significant portion of the population. The Lindblad guests were the first ship party to have ever been welcomed on to the Rongopai marae. We the manuhiri (guests) were looked after royally by the tangata whenua (people of the land).
Rongopai, like other marae in this part of the world, is no tourist village. Set in the rural area inland from Gisborne, it is the living heart of an ancient community. Rongopai is the centre of the Whanau a Kai people, a hapu (subtribe) of the Aitanga a Mahaki iwi (tribe). Marae are the cornerstones of Maori culture. Rongopai, for example, is both a place of meeting for those of the tribe who still live in the rural area and a point of returning for the many scattered members of the tribe who now live throughout New Zealand and overseas. It is a site for weddings, funerals, political meetings, and cultural performances.
The richly decorated wharenui (meeting house) was built in the late nineteenth century for the visionary rebel Te Kooti, a warrior prophet who led his people against the encroaching British colonists. It is also dedicated to the great chief Wi Pere, a leader who sought to fuse ancient Maori knowledge with the ways of the modern world to enable his people to survive. The beautiful paintings of the house are a history book, depicting the ancestors of Whanau a Kai back to ancient times.
We were welcomed on to the marae by elder Rawiri Ruru and then had the history explained to us by Robyn Rauna. Robyn took care to explain that while Maori have a deep respect for the past, they are a people on the move. Maori seek to preserve their culture while taking on board the best of the modern world. Despite the injustices they have suffered under colonial rule Maori seek to live alongside the more recently arrived peoples of New Zealand and make a better future for the Rangatahi (young generation). Robyn described to us the resources set up by their ancestor Wi Pere, resources that were now being used to advance his many descendants. As Robyn told us of the history and future of the people of this marae, elder Rawiri Ruru showed his young mokopuna (grandson) the paintings of the house, explaining to the youngster his ancestors represented there.
After a very enlightening question and answer session, we manuhiri were welcomed into the wharekai (dining room) where we were treated to a fine meal and superb traditional entertainement. The renowned local culture group Waka Toa performed waiata (Maori song), poi (an action song and dance) and Maori martial arts. Guests were invited up to participate in these activities. The demonstration reflected the traditional skills and the competition still keenly participated in by local tribes. As a finale guests were able to join in the famous ‘ka mate’ haka, made famous by the All Blacks, New Zealand’s legendary rugby team.
The whole morning was a truly uplifting experience of a living culture, which we were privileged to be invited to participate in. The afternoon was spent visiting the nearby Arboretum and then one of the many fine local vinyards before returning to our ship. Throughout the day we were guided by local experts Ann MacGuire and Penny Shaw. Truly a day to remember and one that gave a deep insight into the heart of Aotearoa, the essence of indigenous New Zealand.
