Deception Island

What an exciting day! Under sunny skies, we made our first landing at Baily Head, located on the outer coast of Deception Island. Here approximately 100,000 pairs of chinstrap penguins nest on the volcanic slopes. The little tuxedoed fellows (and gals) were marching up and down the beach. Where are they going? One nearby group cautiously inspected the surf; a few occasionally jumped in but most quickly retreated back to shore. In the midst of the penguin “troops,” giant petrels tore at a carcass of a dead bird while kelp gulls patiently waited their turn at a meal.

Cameras clicked away, and much too soon it was time to return to the ship. We had sailed only a short distance, when we heard over the PA: “Orca!” A few quick glimpses and photos were secured, but then these top predator cetaceans were gone.

Our ship continued around the outer coast of Deception until reaching Neptune's Bellows, the narrow entrance into the center of this volcanic caldera. We made our way to Whaler's Bay, the site of one of the most significant whaling stations. Starting in 1906, blue, fin, and humpback whales were hunted without mercy and brought to Whaler’s Bay to be processed. Thousands were slaughtered over several decades. Their over exploitation eventually doomed the hunting; and by1931, other endeavors replaced the whaling industry in this area.

From 1944 until 1969, the British established a scientific base here, but a volcanic eruption in 1969 resulted in its abandonment. Our Zodiacs ferried us ashore to the black cinder beach, where we spent several hours exploring and learning more about this places fascinating history.

However, the fun wasn't over yet. The National Geographic Endeavour repositioned farther into the heart of the caldera, where volcanically warmed water seeped out of the beach cinders. Here we were given the opportunity to “swim”. Many of the guests and a few staff braved the chilly waters for more of a dunk and a wallow than a swim. As if to emphasize the frigidness of the place, snowflakes swirled out of the overcast sky just as we stripping down to our bathing suits. Luckily there were plenty of warm towels and hot mulled wine to prevent hypothermia.

Another fine day was enjoyed by all.