The sound of the crunching leaves underfoot, the nagging, rattling call of the endemic Vanuatu kingfisher, the tickle of the sweat dripping down your knee, the glimpse from the corner of your eye of the shadow of a forest bird flying away, the yellow glow of the belly of the Vanuatu white-eye, the taste of the spongy coconut and the juicy pomelo at the end of our morning birding adventure. This morning, we explored the Loru Conservation Area in Espiritu Santo. The protected, 220-hectacre lowland forest is host to at least six Vanuatu endemics and many other songbird species. We were excited, sweaty, hot, curious, alert, occasionally frustrated, and ultimately rewarded. We were never bored. Birding in this kind of intact habitat is truly a special treat. In the afternoon, we took a beautiful canoe ride up to the Riri Blue Hole, where we went for a lovely swim. Vanuatu is a wonder to behold. What a time to be alive!