Through intermittent bands of sea ice and open water, we sailed south through the western sector of the Ross Sea. Some islands and bays are fully iced in, while others are more open dependent on the wind and current conditions. Snow petrels kept us company for most of the day, and a few seals and emperor penguins were spotted at a distance on drifting pieces of ice. We enjoyed a leisurely day on board, with lectures on marine ecosystems and Robert Falcon Scott’s Terra Nova Expedition, as well as plenty of time for reading, photo editing, and boardgames. After an exceptional asado dinner buffet, those who wished ventured ashore at the German Gondwana Station in Terra Nova Bay.
2/27/2024
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National Geographic Endurance
Drake Passage and Beagle Channel
This morning there is once again water as far as the eye can see, and the Drake Passage has not lived up to its intimidating reputation. The sun came out in glorious form and we watched it paint the tops of the waves with orange light. Land Ho! South America has been spotted. Soon the green covered hills of Tierra Del Fuego were clearly seen. Gone are the ice-covered hills, the glaciers, and tabular icebergs. Before us are trees, sea birds, and hints of a town. Black-browed albatross and blue-eyed shags guide us toward the tip of South America as if to help us transition from the life we have lived these past weeks back to the lives we previously knew. How to share what we just experienced with those we love who have not been a part of it is a quandary we all face. How many of our photos do we share to convey the magic? Will anyone honestly understand how we felt being there? Will anyone notice that we have been deeply changed by this past month in Antarctica? And the question that we all ask ourselves, will we be able to keep this experience close to our hearts? “Dolphin!”, someone cries out. Our inner thoughts disappear as Peale’s dolphins bow ride our ship. Then the blows of sei whales are seen and we spend the rest of the afternoon watching their sharp dorsal fins cut the surface of the sea. The ship moves on as life moves on. Our trip is coming to an end. The Beagle channel opens its arms and welcomes us back. Fair winds and following seas fellow travelers.