This afternoon, we had our first landing of the expedition. The site was Whalers Bay at Deception Island, situated in the caldera of an active volcano. It was permanently abandoned after reoccurring eruptions proved too dangerous for the British research team that had taken possession of the old whaling station in the 1900s. Today, it serves as a historic landmark in the human history of Antarctica. There is little wildlife here. A constant cloud of steam hovers at the shoreline, where hot water from the volcano meets the cold waters of Antarctica. An almost ghostly atmosphere lingers over this place where only graves and the skeletons of buildings and whales remain.
2/20/2024
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Cape Horn and Beagle Channel
The huge distances we have covered on this journey meant that our last full day was spent almost completely at sea on our return leg from Antarctica. After a merciful lie-in, we crowded the decks as we sailed past Cape Horn, the majestic headland at the bottom tip of Hornos Island, the southernmost point of Tierra del Fuego and the entire South American continent. Despite its fearsome reputation, pleasant seas allowed for an enjoyable brunch before we plunged into our presentation schedule for the morning and afternoon. Naturalist Gail Ashton related her experience of living on the Antarctica continent for 18 months, Jonny Reid discussed marine mammal acoustics and the underwater soundscapes of this region, and Jess Farrer explained how the study of whale and seal poop can tell us so much about these animals. As we entered the Beagle Channel, the stunning mountains of Tierra del Fuego lined our passage to Ushuaia. Gathering in the Ice Lounge for the captain’s farewell party, we toasted a hugely enjoyable trip and the new friends we have made.