Bump, scrurr, bump, were the noises we awoke to this morning as the National Geographic Sea Lion navigated through the icebergs, bergy bits, growlers, and brash ice in Tracy Arm fjord. The sun was shining warmly upon us as we approached South Sawyer glacier in the DIBs. The massive quantities of glacial ice in the water provided photo opportunities, navigational challenges, and ample substrate for harbor seals to haul out on. This time of year, harbor seal females use the glacial ice to give birth and nurse their young and rest. We were fortunate enough to see several harbor seal pups nursing. The high fat milk of the harbor seals is essential to the pups who will only be with their mothers for a relatively short period of time.
White thunder echoed through the fjord as ice calved from South Sawyer. Arctic terns sored along the fjord walls and were periodically disturbed by bald eagles. All around us, air bubbles trapped in glacial ice hundreds of years ago were released with a crackle. Water was roaring down the sheer fjord walls and the cries of gulls were heard in the distance. These were the sounds that filled the air; far from the sounds of city life, yet also far from silence.
Today is the Summer Solstice and the longest day of the year. To celebrate the sixteen hours of daylight, we embarked on a great, cold adventure. Nearly thirty guests, staff, and crew donned swim suits, shorts, or other swim-worthy attire. Front flips, back flips, dives, and cannon balls were followed immediately by exclamations of shock and awe. The newly inaugurated members of the Polar Bear Plunge club climbed the swim ladder on the fantail, embraced a warm towel, and sipped on hot cocoa. The adrenaline, excitement, and pride were palatable and continued throughout the afternoon.
As we made our way down the fjord, we marveled at the cascading waterfalls, glacially carved walls and valleys, and flocks of seabirds. Shortly after entering the glassy waters of Stephens Passage, we encountered a humpback whale. The scene was serene, with the whale gracefully breaking the water’s surface while it lazily meandered through the kelp. We basked in the warm sun on the bow of the ship, realizing how fortunate we were to experience a place as remarkable as Southeast Alaska.
