Tortoises! Giant tortoises!
Today we focused on these iconic reptiles that represent Galapagos to the world. Early in the morning we spent a couple of hours visiting the tortoise breeding center operated by the Galapagos National Park Service, just on the eastern edge of the town of Puerto Ayora.
From the very young (hatched only months earlier) to the largest males of unknown age, we observed and photographed the Galapagos giant tortoises residing here. Once they reach the correct size, the young will eventually be repatriated to their island of origin. The whole purpose of this program is to build up the number of tortoises until they reach a sustainable population. All tortoise populations on every island and volcano have been affected by anthropogenic threats. These include black rats and cats that escaped from ships centuries ago; dogs that ran away from their masters with the first settlers; as well as cattle, donkeys and horses. Control programs are working on these problems. Meanwhile, the tortoise numbers are slowly increasing, both in captivity and the wild.
After several days in the wilds of Galapagos, a walk back through town to our meeting place exposed us to the human element of Galapagos: cars, bikes and people. Of particular note was a small bay where the local fishermen bring in their daily catch to filet and sell. Here, takers/buyers come in all sizes and shapes – the two-legged, the four-flippered and winged. What a scene!
Later, we escaped the hot lowlands for the cooler highlands. Some guests used bicycles to get their exercise, working their way up rolling hills, while others visited a school we support because of their educational philosophy – a focus on future community leaders.
The afternoon was spent walking among the native vegetation of the Santa Cruz Island transition zone. We wore rubber boots and searched for giant tortoises wandering the area. The photographers amongst us enjoyed this opportunity to frame the tortoises in lush green surroundings, something completely different from everything we had seen up to now. One group even saw a “high-speed” chase through the forest! One large male saw another large tortoise and set its sights on mating; however, the pursued had different plans and took off at a tortoise sprint. It was even recommended by our photo experts to use the “sport” setting on cameras (just kidding)! After tiring themselves out, the pair rested in a nearby pond to think things over.
That evening, back on board, we had a visit from a researcher connected with the Charles Darwin Foundation, who spoke of pressing research concerns, specifically the parasitic botfly Philornis downsii. This accidentally introduced fly is creating havoc and putting several land birds on the critically endangered list here in Galapagos, and research into control methods is of the utmost importance. Meanwhile, for the first time ever in Galapagos history, one species, the mangrove finch, is being successfully raised in captivity until a more permanent solution can be found.
After dinner, music and dancing took place in the lounge. The entertainment was so good that, despite being tired from a long day, many guests stayed up past their bedtime to enjoy it!
