In an attempt to outpace a sinister looking low-pressure system coming in from the southwest, we sped north to the top of the Tabarin Peninsula where, to our delight, the sun still shines. Gourdin Island is our destination: a dramatic volcanic tricorn slab of basalt peppered with a penguin trio of gentoos, chinstraps, and Adelies. A majority of the latter are juveniles, and ones which nearby leopard seals waste no time pursuing for a next meal when an unsuspecting chick ventures to closely. Our Zodiac weaves in and out of ice floes and rolling icebergs in an area packed with wildlife, wonder, and wilderness. This is Antarctica.
2/20/2024
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Cape Horn and Beagle Channel
The huge distances we have covered on this journey meant that our last full day was spent almost completely at sea on our return leg from Antarctica. After a merciful lie-in, we crowded the decks as we sailed past Cape Horn, the majestic headland at the bottom tip of Hornos Island, the southernmost point of Tierra del Fuego and the entire South American continent. Despite its fearsome reputation, pleasant seas allowed for an enjoyable brunch before we plunged into our presentation schedule for the morning and afternoon. Naturalist Gail Ashton related her experience of living on the Antarctica continent for 18 months, Jonny Reid discussed marine mammal acoustics and the underwater soundscapes of this region, and Jess Farrer explained how the study of whale and seal poop can tell us so much about these animals. As we entered the Beagle Channel, the stunning mountains of Tierra del Fuego lined our passage to Ushuaia. Gathering in the Ice Lounge for the captain’s farewell party, we toasted a hugely enjoyable trip and the new friends we have made.