This morning National Geographic Sea Lion entered the environs of Glacier Bay by way of Sitakaday Narrows. After picking up our National Park Service ranger we steamed north and were blessed by clouds dissipating over the Fairweather Range. Signs and smells of life on approach to South Marble Island brought one and all to the bow to witness the teeming tribe of Steller sea lions, tufted puffins, common murres, pigeon guillemots and oystercatchers.
The iconic puffin appeared to be carrying nesting material in its ornamental bill and this was a sign of the times when this species of seabird takes a break from the life pelagic to nest in the colony where it was born. Frantically beating its wings to keep its stocky body aloft, it was easy to visualize how this bird was better adapted at using its wings to fly underwater in pursuit of prey.
Continuing down the bay we had amazing looks at mountain goats clinging to seemingly impossible precipices. A split hoof allows the goats “toes” to spread wider than the hoof is long and the hard outer rim surrounds a protruding traction pad, giving goats gripping power. Their slab-sided form allows them to move along narrow edges and we were all amazed by their habitat along the steep faces of Gloomy Knob.
As we passed through Russell Cut during lunch the ship slowed down, piquing curiosity amongst the dining room. Within moments our expedition leader announced that a brown bear was swimming across the bow and sure enough, looking out the window we could see Ursus arctos heading for the nearby island. Most of us abandoned lunch to see this truly amazing sight and first bear of the voyage. Once out of the water the bear shook like a dog and lumbered slowly up the beach, only to stand up against alder bushes and rub its back. Around the corner we found it happily munching on perhaps sedges in a small meadow above the beach.
Further down the fjord we began to see some of the amazing tidewater glaciers that have carved the 60-mile-long trench we travel over. As we continued on the journey, it was as if we were stepping back in recent time when this entire area was filled with thousands of feet of ice. At the face of Margerie Glacier, not far from the Canadian border, we were captivated by the immensity of the landscape, the wilderness and wildness. An epic day in Glacier Bay – we have been humbled by the power of rock and ice!
