Early this morning the National Geographic Sea Lion dropped anchor in the most western area of our journey, exploring Southeast Alaska. We were anchored just off of George Island and breakfast was being served. We were in for a full day that started promptly at 8:30 a.m. Zodiacs were launched and soon ferried everyone ashore for a morning of hikes and kayaking. George Island is exposed to the Gulf of Alaska and the open Pacific Ocean. Due to wonderfully calm though slightly misty conditions, kayaking was a pleasure with close views of sea otters, sea stars and a quiet paddle through kelp beds found in and around much of George Island. This island was also a site during WWII where a gun emplacement was installed to protect the northern entrance to the Inland Passage.
Several medium hikes headed out on a well-groomed trail up the half mile path to the gun emplacement, learning much about the history of this lookout post. A smaller group made a short walk across the narrow neck of George Island to see a special beach environment filled with tiny floral surprises! From giant three foot tall cow parsnip stalks topped with a huge umbral of flowers, to the last of this year’s shooting stars, to a carnivorous plant called butterwort, shy maidens hid in the forest near the beach edge, and brightly colored wild columbines all making a wonderful display of Alaska’s short but very showy wild flower season.
While hikers walked, a large group of kayakers explored the waters close in to the shores of tiny George Island making their own discoveries on the surface of the sea.
Return to the National Geographic Sea Lion came early as we were hosting a local guest, Mary Jo-Lord a 44 year resident of a tiny fishing village called Elfin Cove. Once back on board, we were called to the forward lounge and Mary Jo regaled us with her stories of the years, her family, fishing and the changes that have occurred over her lifelong residence in a tiny fishing village in Southeast Alaska. Elfin Cove has a year round population of a dozen people and about as many dogs! There are no roads, only board walks....so the only way to visit this lovely and unique community is by water or by air. After sharing lunch with Mary Jo, we were all invited to take a walk through the community of Elfin Cove. We were greeted by the local dogs, enjoyed walking about, visiting with many locals who were preparing for a big King Salmon opening starting the next day! As the last Zodiac left the dock one yellow lab stood by, wagging his tail wondering where all his new friends were going, and why were they all leaving?
The National Geographic Sea Lion repositioned a short distance from Elfin Cove to the Hobbit Hole, where we would have an opportunity to ride in Zodiacs through the Inian Islands. Inian Passage is a constriction through which a huge amount of water flows as tides change every six hours. Due to the upwelling caused by these enormous water exchanges the entire area is biologically very rich. Many, many birds, Stellar sea lions, sea otters and everything that would feed on fish and what is left over comes to enjoy the abundance of food. Two rounds of Zodiacs departed the stern of our ship and entered the complex network of small islands in search of some of the residents who are here for a fine meal from the sea. We saw mother and baby sea otters, large male sea otters on a kelp couch, many, many Stellar Sea lions hauled out but watching, many, many bald eagles of different ages all looking for their next afternoon snack! We were all watchful, being embraced by tremendous scenery. Cameras were busy, Zodiacs moved in and out of the cupcake islands all decorated in the colors of Southeast Alaska; grey on grey with shades of dark green presenting a visual feast in soft afternoon light.
