Islas San Benitos, Baja California

Gentle seas rocked the ship as we turned into the lee of the most western of the islands of San Benitos. A seasonal fishing village was tucked into a small cove in front of us. A few fishermen worked within the flotilla of pangas near the ship while others pushed barrels around on the beach loading and unloading boats. This was the largest of the three islands. It was also the highest at 660' with an abandoned lighthouse near its summit. Once our land-based adventures started, this attainable "peak" was a delightful draw for about 35 of our guests. We found an old road to the lighthouse and had soon climbed far enough up to get great views of Isla Cedros to the south and the surrounding islands. Once inside the lighthouse, seventy seven steps brought us to a concrete ladder that led to the large lens of cut glass that cast light out to mariners. The fastest group headed down to the beach on the west side where they found elephant seals loafing.

Others walked from the village over a low hill to a beach. Craggy volcanic rocks broke the force of the northern swells. Elephant seals lay sprawled about amongst the seaweed drift. Most were females, pups, and subadults, but a few were large bulls, their rugose chests pink from wear and their pendulous proboscises hanging to the sides of their mouths as they slept. Elephant seals don't like the sun directly on their skin so throw sand with their front flippers up and onto their bodies. The photo above shows the sand mixed with red seaweeds that surround them. Sand is even in the eyes of the female staring at us. Her big eyes are an adaptation for gathering more light in the deep water that elephant seals feed in. Although males have records for dive depths to over 5,000', these females hold the record for time under water of over 2 hours!

Northern elephant seal numbers dropped to between 20 to 100 animals due to overhunting for oil in the late 1800's. We are lucky to still be able to see them today. Mexico has been effective in protecting depleted animals on islands including making Guadalupe Island a biological reserve since 1922. There are now over 127,000 northern elephant seals in the world and 7,000 during the height of breeding on Islas San Benitos.

The afternoon adventures included kayaking and Zodia rides from a tiny bay. Both activities spent time watching elephant seals and hundreds of California sea lions until the light dimmed to a point when cool breezes led us into a warm lounge full of friends.