Exploring Lynn Canal and north Admiralty Island
Through communications with whale researchers in the area, we knew that the only group of humpback whales practicing cooperative feeding were to be found in the lower reaches of Lynn Canal along the western coastline of northern Admiralty Island. With this thought and hope in mind, we planned to be in the general area at daybreak and so arrived early. By cruising through Saginaw Channel and coming around Point Retreat Lighthouse (now a Bed and Breakfast - hire a boat to get there!) we came out into Lynn Canal. We rode the smooth waters scanning, scanning, straining eyesight, spotting individual blows from humpbacks inshore, but no large groupings until around 7:00 a.m. The expected atmospheric low was still holding off and as a consequence we had a spectacular day overhead.
The Fairweather Range was visible with its high, snow-laden peaks and valleys in the far distance. Crystal clear ridges of spruce and hemlock close by. A small pod of Dall's porpoises had us briefly thinking we had hit the motherlode of humpbacks. Sparkling water droplets flew off their dorsal fins as they raced close along the shore had made us think we were seeing the blows of whales. As we reached the opening of Hawk Inlet we spotted many blows produced in unison, the mist hanging in the still air. By the time we were within range, just about everyone was on deck, binoculars at the ready, and we were given the gift of seeing eleven whales "bubble-net feeding".
Underwater at depth, a net of bubbles is formed, and all together the whales come up through the middle, surfacing with incredible energy and motion and mouths open. It was fortunate we had the chance, were in the right place at the right time, because fairly soon afterwards, the group started their travels north along the shore. Amazing behaviors took place periodically on the trip, as we followed slowly, watching their every move: tail-lobbing, head lunges, tail throws, breaching, pectoral slapping…we couldn't have asked for more, quite truly.
I have to mention the afternoon visit as well, as visiting Admiralty Island is a rare opportunity for us. Time was on our side, and we pulled into Barlow Cove, a totally new site for us. A buoy marker with a bell rang deep chimes as Steller sea-lions jostled for position on the float. Our little cove was completely isolated, no one else in sight, the tranquility settling over us all. Walks in the woods followed soft bear trails, some followed a stream (wet feet), and salmon breached everywhere as the Zodiacs cruised the shoreline. A river otter was spotted swimming, then hopped on shore for a brief stare in return.
It was a day of original happenings for us all.
Through communications with whale researchers in the area, we knew that the only group of humpback whales practicing cooperative feeding were to be found in the lower reaches of Lynn Canal along the western coastline of northern Admiralty Island. With this thought and hope in mind, we planned to be in the general area at daybreak and so arrived early. By cruising through Saginaw Channel and coming around Point Retreat Lighthouse (now a Bed and Breakfast - hire a boat to get there!) we came out into Lynn Canal. We rode the smooth waters scanning, scanning, straining eyesight, spotting individual blows from humpbacks inshore, but no large groupings until around 7:00 a.m. The expected atmospheric low was still holding off and as a consequence we had a spectacular day overhead.
The Fairweather Range was visible with its high, snow-laden peaks and valleys in the far distance. Crystal clear ridges of spruce and hemlock close by. A small pod of Dall's porpoises had us briefly thinking we had hit the motherlode of humpbacks. Sparkling water droplets flew off their dorsal fins as they raced close along the shore had made us think we were seeing the blows of whales. As we reached the opening of Hawk Inlet we spotted many blows produced in unison, the mist hanging in the still air. By the time we were within range, just about everyone was on deck, binoculars at the ready, and we were given the gift of seeing eleven whales "bubble-net feeding".
Underwater at depth, a net of bubbles is formed, and all together the whales come up through the middle, surfacing with incredible energy and motion and mouths open. It was fortunate we had the chance, were in the right place at the right time, because fairly soon afterwards, the group started their travels north along the shore. Amazing behaviors took place periodically on the trip, as we followed slowly, watching their every move: tail-lobbing, head lunges, tail throws, breaching, pectoral slapping…we couldn't have asked for more, quite truly.
I have to mention the afternoon visit as well, as visiting Admiralty Island is a rare opportunity for us. Time was on our side, and we pulled into Barlow Cove, a totally new site for us. A buoy marker with a bell rang deep chimes as Steller sea-lions jostled for position on the float. Our little cove was completely isolated, no one else in sight, the tranquility settling over us all. Walks in the woods followed soft bear trails, some followed a stream (wet feet), and salmon breached everywhere as the Zodiacs cruised the shoreline. A river otter was spotted swimming, then hopped on shore for a brief stare in return.
It was a day of original happenings for us all.
