The Dalles to Bonneville Lock & Dam

Clear skies overhead as we drove the Historic Columbia River Highway. Sam Lancaster had fulfilled Sam Hill’s dreams in every way. We wove our way to the Discovery Center situated on the banks of the Columbia, our first impression on entering was that someone had spilled water on the tiled floor of the huge entrance hall, and it was running out the picture windows. But no, it was the Columbia River made of polished granite that ran the length of the hall. We were invited to sit under the huge windows framing the Washington side of the river as an orientation told us about how to make our own discoveries inside the building of most extraordinary exhibits on Lewis and Clark as well as Wasco County where the Columbia River Gorge is situated.

Rowena Crest, our next stop, was designed by the two Sams as one of many overlooks on the 74-mile highway, placed so all who drove that way could appreciate the beauty of the Eastern side of the Columbia River Gorge with a fantastic panorama including the tops of Mount Adams and Mount Hood. Many of us continued on to a section of restored highway that has had access restricted exclusively to foot and bicycle traffic. Some walked the entire 4.6 mile route, others biked the same, and yet another group, the majority, opted for a more leisurely pace along the first two miles in order to ask questions and receive answers without huffing and puffing. But we all had time to smell the Ponderosa pine-filled air and admire the fall colors on the big-leafed maples.

At Hood River we met up with the Sea Bird in time for a late lunch and set off immediately for Cascade Locks where once again we disembarked, this time to Multnomah Falls. At over 600 feet, the drop is spectacular, and the bridge designed to complement Historic Highway provided us with a sense of scale otherwise difficult to imagine. Some of us hiked to the top, others went only as far as the famous bridge. Others searched the stream for salmon shadows looking for a gravel bed to lay down their eggs.

By sunset we were looking forward off the bow as the ship slowly made her way into our last lock of the trip, Bonneville. As the door finally swung open onto the free-flowing river, Beacon Rock stood framed by the doors in rose-colored tints to the west, gulls silhouetted on a glassy surface.