Alert Bay & Johnstone Strait
First light found the Sea Bird cruising north in Johnstone Strait. Vancouver Island located off the port bow, its mountains shrouded in heavy mist. The mainland of British Columbia lay off the starboard side, consisting of many small inlets and tree-covered islets. Just after breakfast the First mate David Sinclair took the Sea Bird into Black Fish Sound in hopes of finding marine mammals and maybe catching the blue sky just beyond the edge clouds slightly to the north of our vessel. We were heading along the northeastern side of Hanson Island when our first mate called to the staff on the bow with news of a whale blow just ahead of the ship! Near a large group of birds we found two Humpback whales. They were feeding on the surface along with several species of birds and to add to the mix Stellar sea lions were feeding on Chum salmon passing through this central channel. It was as though, all species that could feed in these nutrient rich waters were feasting in Black Fish Sound! To add to the magic of the morning the Sea Bird was in sunny skies as the stiff breeze pushed away the morning mist and fog and a world rich in the dramatic beauty of the Northwest was revealed to us all.
In the late morning we began to see more settlements around us. Slowly the Sea Bird pulled away from the morning feeding frenzy and began her passage around the southern end of Cormorant Island heading into the community of Alert Bay, where we would be spending the afternoon. Just after lunch we left the government dock and could take a walk or van ride to the north end of town for our visit to this community’s museum and cultural center.
Entering the Big House we were seated on one side that often holds 2,000 people during traditional events. The usual central fire had not been lit, and Andrea Cranmer explained that just a few hours before our arrival an elder in the community had passed away. The tradition of observing a moment of silence began our experience in the Big House, followed by story telling and an explanation about the fear of lost knowledge that the passing of each elder represents to the younger members of the community. Soon the drum log sounded the beginning of the singing and dancing and for the next hour we were treated to a small sampling of ceremonial dances that would be seen at a Potlatch. All Native peoples consider children our greatest resource and treasures; this being said, we watched as very young boys and girls danced with their elders at the beginning of their education learning the Potlatch traditions of the Kwakwaka’wakw of Alert Bay. At the end of the performance, we were treated to sockeye salmon and banoc (fry bread) with several homemade jams.
Sea Bird's engines were running as we made our way up the gangway. Lines were dropped and we pulled away from the government dock and began heading south. There was a lot of rush in our departure, and soon our expedition leader explained that we had 2 1/2 hours of light and we were on our way to find Killer whales that had been reported earlier in the afternoon some distance south of us. Less that an hour away from Cormorant Island blows were spotted and once again the Sea Bird entered Black Fish Sound finding a small pod of 6 to 9 animals spread across the sound. Mixed in with the Killer whales were two other marine mammals, both Dall’s porpoise and Pacific white-sided dolphins! At times all three animals were rolling, splashing and flashing through the water at high speeds. We remained with these marine mammals until sunset, adding more fleeces and jackets as the breeze stiffened and the temperature dropped. We were not the least bit concerned, as the day had been full of gifts and as the last light of day fell over Killer whales we watched, listened to the blows, immersed in a rich and dramatic scene, all part of a place called the Pacific Northwest.
First light found the Sea Bird cruising north in Johnstone Strait. Vancouver Island located off the port bow, its mountains shrouded in heavy mist. The mainland of British Columbia lay off the starboard side, consisting of many small inlets and tree-covered islets. Just after breakfast the First mate David Sinclair took the Sea Bird into Black Fish Sound in hopes of finding marine mammals and maybe catching the blue sky just beyond the edge clouds slightly to the north of our vessel. We were heading along the northeastern side of Hanson Island when our first mate called to the staff on the bow with news of a whale blow just ahead of the ship! Near a large group of birds we found two Humpback whales. They were feeding on the surface along with several species of birds and to add to the mix Stellar sea lions were feeding on Chum salmon passing through this central channel. It was as though, all species that could feed in these nutrient rich waters were feasting in Black Fish Sound! To add to the magic of the morning the Sea Bird was in sunny skies as the stiff breeze pushed away the morning mist and fog and a world rich in the dramatic beauty of the Northwest was revealed to us all.
In the late morning we began to see more settlements around us. Slowly the Sea Bird pulled away from the morning feeding frenzy and began her passage around the southern end of Cormorant Island heading into the community of Alert Bay, where we would be spending the afternoon. Just after lunch we left the government dock and could take a walk or van ride to the north end of town for our visit to this community’s museum and cultural center.
Entering the Big House we were seated on one side that often holds 2,000 people during traditional events. The usual central fire had not been lit, and Andrea Cranmer explained that just a few hours before our arrival an elder in the community had passed away. The tradition of observing a moment of silence began our experience in the Big House, followed by story telling and an explanation about the fear of lost knowledge that the passing of each elder represents to the younger members of the community. Soon the drum log sounded the beginning of the singing and dancing and for the next hour we were treated to a small sampling of ceremonial dances that would be seen at a Potlatch. All Native peoples consider children our greatest resource and treasures; this being said, we watched as very young boys and girls danced with their elders at the beginning of their education learning the Potlatch traditions of the Kwakwaka’wakw of Alert Bay. At the end of the performance, we were treated to sockeye salmon and banoc (fry bread) with several homemade jams.
Sea Bird's engines were running as we made our way up the gangway. Lines were dropped and we pulled away from the government dock and began heading south. There was a lot of rush in our departure, and soon our expedition leader explained that we had 2 1/2 hours of light and we were on our way to find Killer whales that had been reported earlier in the afternoon some distance south of us. Less that an hour away from Cormorant Island blows were spotted and once again the Sea Bird entered Black Fish Sound finding a small pod of 6 to 9 animals spread across the sound. Mixed in with the Killer whales were two other marine mammals, both Dall’s porpoise and Pacific white-sided dolphins! At times all three animals were rolling, splashing and flashing through the water at high speeds. We remained with these marine mammals until sunset, adding more fleeces and jackets as the breeze stiffened and the temperature dropped. We were not the least bit concerned, as the day had been full of gifts and as the last light of day fell over Killer whales we watched, listened to the blows, immersed in a rich and dramatic scene, all part of a place called the Pacific Northwest.
