Princess Louisa Inlet lies cradled within steep forested slopes and immense granite cliffs carved by glaciers that receded long ago. It juts abruptly east from the much larger channel that sinuously winds back from Jervis Inlet into the British Columbian mainland. This sheltered fjord is separated from the surrounding waters by a narrow constriction, Malibu Rapids, named for the 7- to 10- knot currents that may race through here. It is critical to transit during a brief window of time when the sea slows and the tide is slack, poised between incoming and outgoing, or vice versa. This opening is like a secret passage to a special place of serene beauty and tranquility. The ship slipped effortlessly through, into the majestic fjord that unfolded before us.
Five miles beyond the entrance lies the head of the inlet, our anchorage and base of operations for exploration by foot, kayak, and Zodiac. Kayakers skirted the shore in the warm sunshine, quietly paddling with barely a ripple. The rounded face of a harbor seal broke the surface now and then, and large, blank eyes studied us.
Hikers watched jellyfish pulse lazily in the still water around the landing site. We entered the forest, and a drop in temperature was immediately apparent. Towering red cedars and western hemlocks shaded the lush understory. Immense leaves littered the trail, an autumn ritual for big-leaf maples. Their branches reached into the canopy, festooned with ferns and cushions of moss. A meandering path led on to a spectacular viewpoint for Chatterbox Falls, a 120-foot cascade presumably named for its never-ending sound of water tumbling from the rain- and snow-fed basins higher up.
The Sea Bird glistened clean and white against the dark water, inviting us back. Everyone feasted on delicious lasagna served on the top deck to take advantage of the spectacular sunny weather. The native people called this place "Suivoolot", meaning sunny and warm, and today we could certainly see why. After further exploration by Zodiac, we retraced our route through the entrance, leaving the enchanting inlet behind but taking some of its secrets with us.
Five miles beyond the entrance lies the head of the inlet, our anchorage and base of operations for exploration by foot, kayak, and Zodiac. Kayakers skirted the shore in the warm sunshine, quietly paddling with barely a ripple. The rounded face of a harbor seal broke the surface now and then, and large, blank eyes studied us.
Hikers watched jellyfish pulse lazily in the still water around the landing site. We entered the forest, and a drop in temperature was immediately apparent. Towering red cedars and western hemlocks shaded the lush understory. Immense leaves littered the trail, an autumn ritual for big-leaf maples. Their branches reached into the canopy, festooned with ferns and cushions of moss. A meandering path led on to a spectacular viewpoint for Chatterbox Falls, a 120-foot cascade presumably named for its never-ending sound of water tumbling from the rain- and snow-fed basins higher up.
The Sea Bird glistened clean and white against the dark water, inviting us back. Everyone feasted on delicious lasagna served on the top deck to take advantage of the spectacular sunny weather. The native people called this place "Suivoolot", meaning sunny and warm, and today we could certainly see why. After further exploration by Zodiac, we retraced our route through the entrance, leaving the enchanting inlet behind but taking some of its secrets with us.
