Clearly, our spirit guide for today was the largest of the dolphins - Orsinus orca - the whale called "killer".

According to the day's plan, we were to awake in Robson Bight, the world-renowned spot to encounter "blackfish." However, our early-birders on the observation platform in the bow, found visibility reduced to a few dozen yards by seasonal sea fogs. Peering bravely into the mist, they were rewarded with ghostly glimpses of shearwaters, phalaropes, murres, rhinoceros auklets, and, making everyone's morning, a peregrine falcon carrying prey, that did a circle of inspection. A few Dall's porpoise, but no whales.

Expedition leader Steve Gould called upon Gretchen Pederson to prepare us for the afternoon's cultural activity. Gretchen presented a most informative slide show "Indians of the Northwest Coast." We learned to identify key motifs used in the local indigenous artwork: raven, bear, eagle, salmon and, of course, killer whale.

As Gretchen concluded, right on cue, came the call from the prow "Killer Whales!" As we quietly watched, Sea Bird's engines idling, a small pod, perhaps eight strong, fed on salmon all around us. As they did, our marine mammals expert, Pete Pederson, fascinated us with the natural history of these creatures. He pointed out that their daily routine comprises 12 hours foraging, 6 hours travelling, 3 hours sleeping and three at play.

After lunch, berthed at Alert Bay on Cormorant Island, we were welcomed to the Big House of the Nimpkish Indian band. They entertained us with a display of traditional dances around a central hearth. This concluded with an invitation for a select few to join with them in a dance, and for all, to share a feast of barbecued salmon, bannock and jams made from salal berries and other local food plants.

We concluded our few hours at Alert Bay with a visit to the U'Mista Cultural Centre, which houses precious tribal artifacts. We heard about the cultural tradition of the Potlatch ceremony that had been outlawed but was now restored and undergoing a renaissance.

As we headed south, we came upon a much large larger pod of killer whales, perhaps two dozen strong. As they spy-hopped, fluke-flapped and generally played, Pete continued his commentary. His technical term for the quality of the encounter: "Way cool!"

Today's picture is of the front of the U'Mista Centre, facing the sea. The motifs of the design show a killer whale, surmounted by the mythical thunderbird.