When the tide is out the table is set. When we are in Glacier Bay on a powder blue day in August it means masses of mussels and barnacles encrust the shoreline. The milky, serpentine waters of these inlets mirror mountain after mountain, glacier after glacier. Our lunch is interrupted; "The" bear has been spotted. A lone Grizzly crunches mussels at the water's edge. We glide closer. Like falling in love, we will never forget the first time it happened, and for most of us this is our first bear. Its golden fur, like a modern haircut, is tossed in the sunshine. After feasting our eyes we return to our meal. Another bear! No! Two more bears, our expedition leader announces. Is there really a choice? Down go our forks, and we step out deck once again. But this time we're closer. Through our binoculars we see one Grizzly munching barnacles like they are cracker jacks. We're not hungry any more. The second bear approaches the first from the other side of the gravel and boulder strewn beach. It wanders slowly, bobbing its head. The sound of cracking cracker jacks must fill the bay. The first bear senses that there will be no dessert. The chase is on. This beach belongs to one bear and it is not the one having lunch. The pursuit is like tag. They lope back and forth oblivious to the terrain, yet never stumble. Their stamina is impressive. Finally the proprietor has made his point - what is yours is mine and what is mine is mine. We remember our own lunch and return with a renewed appetite and enthusiasm.