Regensburg: From Song to Sausages
Low water levels on the Danube changed our expedition plans for Regensburg and necessitated our docking in Vilshofen instead. Although we had to travel 80-90 minutes by bus to reach our destination, we actually were able to spend more time in Regensburg than foreseen. Early risers found our ship docked in a shroud of fog, but we were greeted by brilliant sunshine and colorful fall leaves as soon as we approached the Bavarian Forest (Bayerischer Wald). The perfect Oktoberfest weather reminded us that this annual festival is currently taking place only an hour’s drive away in Munich.
Regensburg, situated at the northernmost point of the Danube, has been an important settlement since pre-historic times. The Celts named their settlement Ratisbona. In 179 AD during the reign of Marcus Aurelius, the great legionary camp of the Romans was founded as Castra Regina. Later, Germanic peoples descended on this area, ousting the Romans and establishing the city of Regensburg. The monumental Roman gate called Porta Praetoria can still be seen near the cathedral.
From 1613 until 1806 Regensburg was the seat of the Diet (Reichstag) of the Holy Roman Empire, housed in the 14th century Old Town Hall. Center point of the city is the magnificent Gothic Cathedral of St. Peter, constructed 1275-1643, which brings talented young singers to their famous boys’ choir, the Regensburg Domspatzen (Cathedral Sparrows). One Domspatzen director was the brother of the current Pope Benedict XVI, former professor of theology at the University of Regensburg.
Our first bus departed early to arrive for a glorious mass with the Cathedral Sparrows. The later bus joined us at the Café Thurn and Taxis for a hearty Bavarian meal of weisswurst (white wurst) and leberkaes, a “liver cheese” with neither of these items in it, with their respective sweet and middle sharp mustards. Afterwards we were guided through the Thurn and Taxis Castle, greater than Buckingham Palace and home to the family which held the original European monopoly for postal services.
Meandering through the city we savored the sights, sounds, smells and culinary delights of Regensburg. In irregular Medieval lanes, we passed the house of Oskar Schindler (movie Schindler’s List) and paused in front of the Old Town Hall, where we smelled aromatic coffee coming from the oldest coffee house in Germany (1686).
A bronze statue was dedicated to Don Juan of Austria, illegitimate son of Emperor Charles V and the local beauty Barbara Bloomberg. Don Juan later went on the lead European forces to a decisive victory over the Turks at Lepanto in 1571. At the 12th century Stone Bridge we marveled at its grandeur and the history it had witnessed. Then we followed our noses to Germany’s oldest sausage restaurant called the Wurstkuchl. The irresistible odor incited most of us to sample the tasty finger-sized wursts in a caraway seed bun.
The splendid day provided much lively conversation for our Farewell Dinner.
Low water levels on the Danube changed our expedition plans for Regensburg and necessitated our docking in Vilshofen instead. Although we had to travel 80-90 minutes by bus to reach our destination, we actually were able to spend more time in Regensburg than foreseen. Early risers found our ship docked in a shroud of fog, but we were greeted by brilliant sunshine and colorful fall leaves as soon as we approached the Bavarian Forest (Bayerischer Wald). The perfect Oktoberfest weather reminded us that this annual festival is currently taking place only an hour’s drive away in Munich.
Regensburg, situated at the northernmost point of the Danube, has been an important settlement since pre-historic times. The Celts named their settlement Ratisbona. In 179 AD during the reign of Marcus Aurelius, the great legionary camp of the Romans was founded as Castra Regina. Later, Germanic peoples descended on this area, ousting the Romans and establishing the city of Regensburg. The monumental Roman gate called Porta Praetoria can still be seen near the cathedral.
From 1613 until 1806 Regensburg was the seat of the Diet (Reichstag) of the Holy Roman Empire, housed in the 14th century Old Town Hall. Center point of the city is the magnificent Gothic Cathedral of St. Peter, constructed 1275-1643, which brings talented young singers to their famous boys’ choir, the Regensburg Domspatzen (Cathedral Sparrows). One Domspatzen director was the brother of the current Pope Benedict XVI, former professor of theology at the University of Regensburg.
Our first bus departed early to arrive for a glorious mass with the Cathedral Sparrows. The later bus joined us at the Café Thurn and Taxis for a hearty Bavarian meal of weisswurst (white wurst) and leberkaes, a “liver cheese” with neither of these items in it, with their respective sweet and middle sharp mustards. Afterwards we were guided through the Thurn and Taxis Castle, greater than Buckingham Palace and home to the family which held the original European monopoly for postal services.
Meandering through the city we savored the sights, sounds, smells and culinary delights of Regensburg. In irregular Medieval lanes, we passed the house of Oskar Schindler (movie Schindler’s List) and paused in front of the Old Town Hall, where we smelled aromatic coffee coming from the oldest coffee house in Germany (1686).
A bronze statue was dedicated to Don Juan of Austria, illegitimate son of Emperor Charles V and the local beauty Barbara Bloomberg. Don Juan later went on the lead European forces to a decisive victory over the Turks at Lepanto in 1571. At the 12th century Stone Bridge we marveled at its grandeur and the history it had witnessed. Then we followed our noses to Germany’s oldest sausage restaurant called the Wurstkuchl. The irresistible odor incited most of us to sample the tasty finger-sized wursts in a caraway seed bun.
The splendid day provided much lively conversation for our Farewell Dinner.
