Kotor, Montenegro
Around 6:30 this morning we took the pilot on board and began our 13-mile navigation of the fjord-like entrance to the port of Kotor. The contrast between the coastal settlements and the Dinaric alpine mountains soaring 3000 feet above was striking. After sailing through the 300 meter-wide verige (straits), the ship circled two small islands (one with a Catholic church, the other with an Orthodox church) before proceeding to dock alongside the city walls of Kotor.
From Kotor we took a bus to the small village of Perast, home to wealthy sea trading families and the first line of defense against any invaders attempting to enter Kotor Bay. Perast enjoyed special privileges under Venetian rule, including duty-free trade for their local products such as fish and salt. From Perast we took a small boat ride out to the island of Our Lady of the Rock (Gospa od Skrpjela), an artificial island built on a reef, where in 1582 two brothers discovered an ikon of the Madonna and Child on a reef. Following several inexplicable events attributed to the ikon, the people of Perast decided to build a church as a token of their gratitude. The island was constructed by sinking enemy ships weighted down by rocks. Every year there is the “Fashionada” when the males of Perast sail out to the island and drop rocks to help support the island's foundations. The 1630 Baroque-style Catholic church is now a museum that contains an extensive collection of “votives” offerings given in thanks by sailors and their families for the protection of Our Lady of the Rock during their voyages. There are paintings of ships saved from storms, pottery from as far away as Japan, as well as a wide variety of artifacts from around the world. The Orthodox church on the neighboring natural island of Saint George was closed, but still operates for as a place for retreats throughout the year. Our timing for visiting the island was fortunate because immediately after our tour, several representatives from the NATO high command arrived to pay their respects to Our Lady of the Rocks. We then returned to the town of Perast to visit St Nicholas' church which contains a museum of relics and silver chalices as well as richly embroidered vestments. A visit to the new Maritime Museum completed our pilgrimage to Perast.
The medieval town of Kotor is breathtaking as the city walls zigzag up the mountain side and culminate with the fortress of St. Giovanni (it is 1350 steps to climb the city walls to the top). Our guides Rade and Mina gave us a short orientation tour of the highlights of the city, including the local Catholic and Orthodox churches. Evidence of the damage from the earthquake in 1667 was evident in the reconstructed walls, where frequently the second stories of buildings were rebuilt. The cafe life typical of the Dalmatian Coast was in full swing and it was only a few steps to find a place to purchase a refreshing gelato.
After lunch we took an exciting ride up Mt. Lovcen on a road with 25 serpentine switchbacks. Growing out of the limestone karst were many of the dark pine trees that gave Montenegro its name of “Black Mountain” (Crna Gora) since from afar they look black rather than dark green. Our destination was the mountaintop village of Njegusi, birthplace of King Petar II and favorite place for hiking and mountaineering in the fresh clean air high above the city traffic. The village also specializes in the local smoked ham prst and we had the opportunity to visit Bosko's small, private smokehouse where he personally cures, drys and smokes ham. Tom couldn't resist and bought an entire ham to bring back as a present for Alex, the ship's hotel manager, which we ater late along with fresh figs and local Vranac wine during the evening recap. The rest of the evening was spent at leisure. Some dined in town and sampled the nightlife, while others sat in the aft lounge to admire the city walls illuminated against the night sky.
Around 6:30 this morning we took the pilot on board and began our 13-mile navigation of the fjord-like entrance to the port of Kotor. The contrast between the coastal settlements and the Dinaric alpine mountains soaring 3000 feet above was striking. After sailing through the 300 meter-wide verige (straits), the ship circled two small islands (one with a Catholic church, the other with an Orthodox church) before proceeding to dock alongside the city walls of Kotor.
From Kotor we took a bus to the small village of Perast, home to wealthy sea trading families and the first line of defense against any invaders attempting to enter Kotor Bay. Perast enjoyed special privileges under Venetian rule, including duty-free trade for their local products such as fish and salt. From Perast we took a small boat ride out to the island of Our Lady of the Rock (Gospa od Skrpjela), an artificial island built on a reef, where in 1582 two brothers discovered an ikon of the Madonna and Child on a reef. Following several inexplicable events attributed to the ikon, the people of Perast decided to build a church as a token of their gratitude. The island was constructed by sinking enemy ships weighted down by rocks. Every year there is the “Fashionada” when the males of Perast sail out to the island and drop rocks to help support the island's foundations. The 1630 Baroque-style Catholic church is now a museum that contains an extensive collection of “votives” offerings given in thanks by sailors and their families for the protection of Our Lady of the Rock during their voyages. There are paintings of ships saved from storms, pottery from as far away as Japan, as well as a wide variety of artifacts from around the world. The Orthodox church on the neighboring natural island of Saint George was closed, but still operates for as a place for retreats throughout the year. Our timing for visiting the island was fortunate because immediately after our tour, several representatives from the NATO high command arrived to pay their respects to Our Lady of the Rocks. We then returned to the town of Perast to visit St Nicholas' church which contains a museum of relics and silver chalices as well as richly embroidered vestments. A visit to the new Maritime Museum completed our pilgrimage to Perast.
The medieval town of Kotor is breathtaking as the city walls zigzag up the mountain side and culminate with the fortress of St. Giovanni (it is 1350 steps to climb the city walls to the top). Our guides Rade and Mina gave us a short orientation tour of the highlights of the city, including the local Catholic and Orthodox churches. Evidence of the damage from the earthquake in 1667 was evident in the reconstructed walls, where frequently the second stories of buildings were rebuilt. The cafe life typical of the Dalmatian Coast was in full swing and it was only a few steps to find a place to purchase a refreshing gelato.
After lunch we took an exciting ride up Mt. Lovcen on a road with 25 serpentine switchbacks. Growing out of the limestone karst were many of the dark pine trees that gave Montenegro its name of “Black Mountain” (Crna Gora) since from afar they look black rather than dark green. Our destination was the mountaintop village of Njegusi, birthplace of King Petar II and favorite place for hiking and mountaineering in the fresh clean air high above the city traffic. The village also specializes in the local smoked ham prst and we had the opportunity to visit Bosko's small, private smokehouse where he personally cures, drys and smokes ham. Tom couldn't resist and bought an entire ham to bring back as a present for Alex, the ship's hotel manager, which we ater late along with fresh figs and local Vranac wine during the evening recap. The rest of the evening was spent at leisure. Some dined in town and sampled the nightlife, while others sat in the aft lounge to admire the city walls illuminated against the night sky.
