Sarande/Butrint, Albania
Most of us had few preconceptions about our upcoming couple of days in Albania, closed for 45 years of the 20th century under the strict communist dictatorship of Enver Hoxha. What should we expect? Is it safe? Is it religious? Is it developed? What language do the people speak? We approached the southern port of Sarande with curious minds and open eyes.
The one-hour drive from Sarande to Butrint covered 20 kilometers, and was dizzying to the senses. Hundreds of incomplete constructions spread out across the rolling landscape, interspersed with olive trees and remnant pill-box bunkers, while crowded busses and beat up Mercedes edged around each other on the single narrow road along the peninsula. But the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Butrint was a world unto itself, with layer upon layer of civilation leaving its mark on this strategic peninsula that separates the rich Butrint Lagoon from the Corfu Channel. We hiked the lower reaches of Greek, Roman and Byzantine ruins, then climbed up to the Venetian castle ruins for a spectacular overview of the site.
But this view was nothing compared to the noonday views from Lekursit Castle overlooking Sarande. The island of Corfu, Butrint Peninsula and Lagoon, and the Sarande Valley and Bay all lay majestically below our dramatic perch, which was a 17th century Ottoman Turk Castle.
We finished the day at a different castle ruin only 15 miles north at the bay of Porto Palermo, where we swam and kayaked under the guise of Ali Pasha’s castle. The day was topped with a sunset wine reception atop the castle ruins, with a local flautist setting the mood and hotel manager Alex and his crew hosting drinks and snacks. What an introduction to this enigmatic country!
Most of us had few preconceptions about our upcoming couple of days in Albania, closed for 45 years of the 20th century under the strict communist dictatorship of Enver Hoxha. What should we expect? Is it safe? Is it religious? Is it developed? What language do the people speak? We approached the southern port of Sarande with curious minds and open eyes.
The one-hour drive from Sarande to Butrint covered 20 kilometers, and was dizzying to the senses. Hundreds of incomplete constructions spread out across the rolling landscape, interspersed with olive trees and remnant pill-box bunkers, while crowded busses and beat up Mercedes edged around each other on the single narrow road along the peninsula. But the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Butrint was a world unto itself, with layer upon layer of civilation leaving its mark on this strategic peninsula that separates the rich Butrint Lagoon from the Corfu Channel. We hiked the lower reaches of Greek, Roman and Byzantine ruins, then climbed up to the Venetian castle ruins for a spectacular overview of the site.
But this view was nothing compared to the noonday views from Lekursit Castle overlooking Sarande. The island of Corfu, Butrint Peninsula and Lagoon, and the Sarande Valley and Bay all lay majestically below our dramatic perch, which was a 17th century Ottoman Turk Castle.
We finished the day at a different castle ruin only 15 miles north at the bay of Porto Palermo, where we swam and kayaked under the guise of Ali Pasha’s castle. The day was topped with a sunset wine reception atop the castle ruins, with a local flautist setting the mood and hotel manager Alex and his crew hosting drinks and snacks. What an introduction to this enigmatic country!
