Hvar
The cloudy skies gradually cleared with the sun coming out to justify Hvar's claim to fame as the sunniest island in Croatia, although a crisp breeze kept it from getting too hot. We took a local tender to begin our walking tour at the 16th century Franciscan Monastery which overlooks the lovely harbor. The museum there has a charmingly eclectic collection of art: paintings, sculpture and caricatures, as well as a magnificent mural of the Last Supper (possibly by the Venetian painter Matteo Ingoli). From under the branches of a 300-year old cyprus we could see the Pakleni Otoci (islands named for the resin of the numerous pines growing there). They form a natural barrier that provides a natural shelter for the harbor (as well as a defense against the pirates of the not so distant past). As we strolled along the Riva's U-shaped walks, it was easy to understand why it attracted the attention of the Venetians who developed Hvar Town into an important port for their trade route along the Dalmatian Coast. Originally named Pharos by Greeks in the 4th century BC, the island shows evidence of even earlier settlements of Illyrians. We admired the limestone construction of Arsenal where Venetian ships were serviced and now has been restored as a museum. On its upper story the Renaissance theater (said to be the oldest in Europe) is being reconstructed.
We ended our tour in the square of St. Stjepan which divides the town into two sections: Grod enclosed by 13th century walls to the north is where one finds the palaces and great houses of the nobility, while on the south side of the square lies Burak, where the commoners lived and worked. Everyone struck out in different directions. Up the hill overlooking the old town is the Citadel (Fortica) built by the Venetians using Spanish engineers in the 16th century, a fairly easy walk of about 20 minutes. To the left of the Cathedral of St. Stjepan is the lively farmers market where one can purchase Rubinesque grapes, sweet melons and all manner of produce grown inland. There is olive oil to sample as well as the local travarica (an herb-infused grappa). Jars of capers and packets of dried rosemary had been harvested from plants growing out of the city walls. Hidden in the labyrinth of small streets are shops and restaurants, but the cafes along the square and the riva are certainly the places to watch and be watched. Those eager for their first swim in the Adriatic took the early tenders back to the ship, while others were reluctant to leave the lavender and rosemary scented atmosphere. After lunch the ship raised the anchor and we took advantage of the winds and set sail for our next destination. Before dinner Daniela, our local guide, gave us an insightful introduction to present day Croatia that provided ample material for lively discussion during evening recap.
The cloudy skies gradually cleared with the sun coming out to justify Hvar's claim to fame as the sunniest island in Croatia, although a crisp breeze kept it from getting too hot. We took a local tender to begin our walking tour at the 16th century Franciscan Monastery which overlooks the lovely harbor. The museum there has a charmingly eclectic collection of art: paintings, sculpture and caricatures, as well as a magnificent mural of the Last Supper (possibly by the Venetian painter Matteo Ingoli). From under the branches of a 300-year old cyprus we could see the Pakleni Otoci (islands named for the resin of the numerous pines growing there). They form a natural barrier that provides a natural shelter for the harbor (as well as a defense against the pirates of the not so distant past). As we strolled along the Riva's U-shaped walks, it was easy to understand why it attracted the attention of the Venetians who developed Hvar Town into an important port for their trade route along the Dalmatian Coast. Originally named Pharos by Greeks in the 4th century BC, the island shows evidence of even earlier settlements of Illyrians. We admired the limestone construction of Arsenal where Venetian ships were serviced and now has been restored as a museum. On its upper story the Renaissance theater (said to be the oldest in Europe) is being reconstructed.
We ended our tour in the square of St. Stjepan which divides the town into two sections: Grod enclosed by 13th century walls to the north is where one finds the palaces and great houses of the nobility, while on the south side of the square lies Burak, where the commoners lived and worked. Everyone struck out in different directions. Up the hill overlooking the old town is the Citadel (Fortica) built by the Venetians using Spanish engineers in the 16th century, a fairly easy walk of about 20 minutes. To the left of the Cathedral of St. Stjepan is the lively farmers market where one can purchase Rubinesque grapes, sweet melons and all manner of produce grown inland. There is olive oil to sample as well as the local travarica (an herb-infused grappa). Jars of capers and packets of dried rosemary had been harvested from plants growing out of the city walls. Hidden in the labyrinth of small streets are shops and restaurants, but the cafes along the square and the riva are certainly the places to watch and be watched. Those eager for their first swim in the Adriatic took the early tenders back to the ship, while others were reluctant to leave the lavender and rosemary scented atmosphere. After lunch the ship raised the anchor and we took advantage of the winds and set sail for our next destination. Before dinner Daniela, our local guide, gave us an insightful introduction to present day Croatia that provided ample material for lively discussion during evening recap.
