Dubrovnik

We anchored in the Old Harbor of Dubrovnik just off the island of Lokrum and took a tender to shore. Like the maritime traders of the past we entered the Old Town (Stari Grad) through the Ploce Gate and stood at the statue of Orlando (a.k.a. Roland) for our introduction to the city Lord Byron called “The Pearl of the Adriatic”. With the clock tower and Rector's Palace to our left, we admired the front of the church of St. Blaise (Sveti Vlaho), the city's patron saint. Behind us was Dugana, the old customs hall, which now houses an exhibit of the 1991-1992 seige of the city by the Yugoslav Army. Dubrovnik (formerly Ragusa), is situated on a rocky promontory which was a resettlement of the Roman outpost of Epidarium (at Cavtat) after an earthquake around the 7th century. In 1667 another earthquake devastated Dubrovnik (as well as nearby Kotor) and the different styles of architecture reflectl the different layers of reconstruction. For most of its history, Dubrovnik has functioned an independent city-state with special status granted to it by both the Venetian and Ottoman Empires until its independence was ended by the arrival of Napoleon's troops. The Austro-Hungarians subsequently took control and made a number of “improvements” to roads and bridges which have since been restored to their original beauty.

We strolled leisurely along the main promenade Stradun (originally a channel separating the lower level of the original settlement from the upper level which was later settled by Slavs). To our right leading to the uppermost borders of the old city were charming alleys decorated with flowers and vines, as well as colorful flags of freshly laundered clothing stretched across overhead. We stopped for a closer look at the Franciscan monastery which boasts the oldest continually operating pharmacy in Europe and also houses a number of relics and jewelry typical of Dubrovnik.

Our next destination was Pile Gate in order to ascend to the top of the city walls. The panoramic views were magnificent and also provided a glimpse into how the locals live next to the city walls. We had a clear view of nearby Mt. Srdj from which the city was bombarded, and predominance of the new tile roofs was evidence of the city's most recent reconstruction. The resilient inhabitants of this UNESCO site collected all the old remaining clay tiles in order that the top layer of the roof of the Franciscan monastery would retain its medieval look. While it was hot and the mile-and-a-half climb demanding, the hike was well worth it for the views (and no guilt about the ice cream cones).

The remainder of the day was spent at leisure. After wandering the streets and shops on our own, we returned to the ship for lunch (some of us with tasty treats from the farmers market) and swimming off the ship or reading on deck, Later that afternoon we gathered for a magnificent concert by the award-winning klapa group “Ostro Konavli”. Sitting in the peaceful courtyard of the Dominican monastery and listening to beautiful music, we could easily imagine ourselves to in a quiet medieval town rather than a bustling tourist destination.