Gisborne
The weather Gods were not kind when Oceanic Discoverer berthed in Gisborne as rain and mist greeted the guests as they peered out of the dining room window. The temperature was relatively warm however, and most of the guests expressed enthusiasm for the forthcoming visit to the marae. Hosted by Ann McGuire of Tipuna Tours and accompanied also by Penny, two coaches transported the party to Pakowhai Marae some 12 miles from Gisborne. Both guides and the drivers provided both Maori history and local agriculture commentary and folk on both buses practised ‘You Are My Sunshine’ the waiata they were to sung in response to the formal greeting from the tangata whenua.
There was no kuia to welcome the guests on the paepae with the traditional karakia and all were at work so a bell was used for the purpose—Ann acting the lead for the manuhiri. Because of the rain the formal proceedings of welcome were conducted inside the wharenui and the kaumatua, known locally as ‘Papa Dave’ spoke both in English and Maori acknowledging ancestors both recent and ancient describing the meaning of the structure of the wharenui and the history of the marae. For the manuhiri David Grant replied partly in te reo and partly in English acknowledging his own turangawaewae, then the forbears of the group, himself and those of the hosts. Then the young warrior Tu (Oyster), the marae’s master carver then described the meaning of some of the carvings inside and outside the wharenui. The guests then left for lunch in the wharekai on hearing the sound of the conch shell.
Following lunch and back in the wharenui, the other warrior Tai explained the traditional weapons of war and when and for what purpose they were used after ‘dancing’ with the taiaha to the sound of birdsong. The third warrior demonstrated traditional movements of war with the taiaha. Then Tu, an accomplished musician as well as a master carver, explained the meaning and use of some traditional Maori musical instruments and playing them impressively. Many were passed around the wharenui for guests to observe them. Then questions were asked, and photos were taken while some guests perused the intricacies of the carvings and tukutuku panels around the room. After a last group photo at the front of the wharenui the guests too their leave back to the ship for lunch.
The afternoon’s events included a visit to the boutique Bushmere Winery near the city. The host explained which grapes he grows and why, letting each of the guests sample each of wines all accompanied by appropriate finger food. A second bus took another group to the arboretum some 25 miles inland from Gisborne where guests enjoyed a variety of walking and vehicle tours through a wide range of spectacular trees both native and non-native. Guests were surprised at the extent and comprehensive nature of the arboretum. At 6pm the Oceanic Discoverer hauled anchor and headed for White Island in The Bay of Plenty.
