Dunedin
Over the one thousand years or so of human habitation in New Zealand, much of the wildlife has taken a beating from habitat destruction and the introduction of “nasties,” or introduced pests. For the most part, offshore predator-free islands are the final refuge for many of the species endemic to New Zealand. The Otago peninsula near Dunedin is a bit of an anomaly in the fact that there are a lot of rare, endemic species that are still to be found on the “mainland” and quite close to a city centre.
On the promontory at the entrance to Otago harbor, Southern Royal Albatross breed in the only mainland colony in the world. Usually restricted to remote offshore islands, this small colony persists even though a long history of settlement exists around this headland. With a nearly constant wind (although today it was calm), close fishing grounds, and tussock nesting sites, it is a perfect spot for these massive birds. With a wingspan of nearly 11 feet, these are amongst the largest of flying birds. The birds are well studied, and we learned all about their life and individual histories. Five nests were in view of the observation area, and all birds had chicks, the largest being over a month old and already weighing nearly five pounds.
A short journey took us to the “Natural Wonders,” the home to more endemic and endangered wildlife. New Zealand fur seals are slowly recovering from near extinction due to being hunted for their luxurious fur. We visited a breeding colony where many pups were nursing and playing. Nearly two months in age, they were beginning to be a bit curious of humans, but were certainly more interested in swimming in the tidepools and playing with kelp. What appears to be a successful breeding year will certainly help to increase their population.
A nearby viewpoint looked down on a postcard perfect beach, covered in kelp and surrounded by native scrubby bush. However, we were not there to make sandcastles, but to look for one of the rarest penguins in the world, the Yellow-eyed Penguin. As we arrived someone shouted “penguin!” and one Yellow-eyed Penguin was observed crossing the beach and entering the ocean on a feeding foray. After a few seconds of searching, another bird was found molting on the beach, and three more adults lying in sandy patches amongst the scrub. Certainly some good luck to see so many of these rarities!
Returning to Oceanic Discoverer, we prepared to leave Dunedin behind. Surrounding the ship while at the dock was a massive flock of Spotted Shags feeding on schooling fishes. Joining them was yet another endangered and endemic species, the Hooker’s Sea Lion. With a population of fewer than 10,000 animals in the world, we were very lucky to observe it as well. As we left Otago harbor and Dunedin, we sailed under the nesting cliffs of the Southern Royal Albatross and headed out to sea. And while not rare, a sighting of some enthusiastic Dusky Dolphins was a perfect ending to our day of endangered and endemic wildlife here in New Zealand.
