Barro Colorado and the Panama Canal, Panama
Last night and today is an exciting day on board National Geographic Sea Lion, as we make our crossing from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean through the historic Panama Canal, a 50-mile shortcut between oceans.
The bend in Isthmus of Panama means that the transit is actually from west to east, a fact that is a little confusing until you look at an atlas. The work began in 1880 by the French and was completed in 1914 by the Americans, almost 100 years ago. Once completed, it was no longer necessary for ships to make the dangerous voyage around Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America.
Having transited Gatun locks after embarking the ship last night, we anchor in Gatun Lake 85 feet above sea level. Early this morning our main stop was Barro Colorado Island (BCI). This island created by a dam across the Chagres River is now a forest laboratory run by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute. The scientists who work here became our guides. We explored trails through the tropical rain forest, and cruise with our Zodiacs looking for birds and wildlife along the shoreline. The spine-tingling growls of howler monkeys echoed through the canopy. Spider monkeys leap from tree to tree. And the repetitious calls of toucans were ever-present but gave us only a rare glimpse.
This afternoon we continued our transit through the Canal, crossing the continental divide at the Culebra Cut, then drop through a series of locks at Pedro Miguel and Miraflores back to sea level. It was an epic crossing. Dwarfed by a huge Panamax container ship, we spy a peregrine falcon hitching a ride. Magnificent frigate birds circle overhead, while the electric locomotives, called mules, kept us centered in the locks.
Out on deck we enjoyed ceviche, beer, and margaritas crossing under the Bridge of the Americas marking out official entrance into the Pacific Ocean just as the sun dips below the horizon—a fitting end to a day we will remember forever.