From the National Geographic Sea Lion in Alaska, 5/8/2011, National Geographic Sea Lion

Tracy Arm/Fords Terror Wilderness

We began to hear solid pieces of ice gently bump against the hull of the National Geographic Sea Lion early this morning as we made our way deeper into Tracy Arm and the Fords Terror Wilderness. Last night we traveled 40 miles south from Juneau and woke up to a stunning vista of tall, rocky bluffs that run straight down into the glacial fjord waters, the snowy peaked mountains just beginning to reflect the sun. Stretch class was held on the aft bridge deck with a grand view of the narrow fjord and as we stretched, we enjoyed watching large fragments of ice float by the sides of the ship.

After breakfast, we had our first opportunity of the voyage to make use of the four pontoon-style Zodiacs that allow us to navigate into sheltered or shallow areas and silently drift closer to wildlife without disturbing their peace. We steered around large pieces of ice and through glistening ice fields created by the calving of Sawyer and South Sawyer glaciers that comprise the head of the fjord. These two glaciers are tide water glaciers, meaning their faces extend far down into the water. A hundred years ago Sawyer and South Sawyer glaciers were united as one tide water glacier, but since then they have retreated back several miles, leaving behind them an expanse of scarred, sparsely vegetated rock.

As we drifted, a bald eagle sat regally atop a pine tree on South Sawyer Island and we spotted a dozen mountain goats traversing the steep and rugged slopes of the fjord walls. The weather was remarkably warm and sunny and spirits were high as we slowly motored back to the ship for lunch.

We remained within Tracy Arm for the afternoon and had the opportunity to explore the area by kayak. Seeing the icebergs from the Zodiacs was impressive, but viewing them at sea level from the kayaks rendered them even more majestic. As an extra bonus, we were served hot chai from a circling Zodiac. It was a great first day on board the National Geographic Sea Lion, and we’re excited to see what the rest of the week has in store!