Los Islotes & Isla Espiritu Santo
Sunrise found the National Geographic Sea Bird cruising in the Gulf of California. Her destination, this morning was the northern tip of a small archipelago located two hours north of La Paz. Los Islotes is the southernmost haul-out for California sea lions in the Gulf of California.
Just after breakfast the first group of Zodiac tours left the aft section of the National Geographic Sea Bird, ready for a tour along the lee side of Los Islotes. The smell and sound of California sea lions wafted across the water as each Zodiac cruised slowly towards the main haul-out. Sea lions of every size were resting on the rocks after a night of fishing. Draped over each other, stretched out, or arched in impossible positions defying all known flexibility…these California sea lions were obviously at home on and around their rocky haul-out. Rather large babies were nursing; other small animals were playing in the water, while males of every size were beginning the practice of competition for a mate. Each Zodiac made several passes, finding their favorite animals to watch and photograph.
Above the sea lions, blue-footed boobies were in the madness of mating dances! We saw sky-points, whistles, and kissing bills in every direction. A great blue heron sat on its nest, very mindful of what lay at its feet. A sentry of Brandt cormorants were lined up, bills all pointed in the same direction, showing off very interesting breeding plumage just beneath their blue eyes and blue chin feathers. At the feet of the cormorants and just beneath the sea lions, Sally Lightfoot crabs decorated in brilliant colored shells dashed from crevice to crevice, often starting a boxing match over territory.
The Zodiac tours ended in the early morning and preparations were made to anchor one boat in the buoys just off of the main haul-out for the sea lions. Several shuttles of snorkelers braved the refreshingly cool waters to have a chance to snorkel and play with sea lions. It was difficult to tell who was watching who as snorkelers jumped in the water where the sea lions were obviously waiting for their newest playmates. All too soon we were called back to the National Geographic Sea Bird. Once back on board we were called to the lounge, where our guest speaker from National Geographic, John Francis, gave a talk on sea lions, adding depth to our morning experience, with stories and visuals of pinnipeds from around the world.
As the talk was finishing the National Geographic Sea Bird lifted her anchor and got underway, heading down the eastern side of Isla Espiritu Santo toward our afternoon destination of Bahia Bonanza at the southeast tip of the island. Our afternoon was spent kayaking, hiking or just enjoying a gorgeous two-mile white sand beach that circled a lovely half moon-shaped bay. The final touch to a wonderful day was a dinner barbecue on shore provided by the hotel staff. A bonfire was lit, stories of ancient Mexico were shared and music filled the cool evening air as stars littered the clear sky in this remarkable and unusual place of dreams that many of us still affectionately call “a desert by the sea.”
