Los Islotes & Isla San Francisco
We awoke this morning to find ourselves anchored off Los Islotes, which translates to the Small Islands. These two guano covered rock formations jut out of the water with multitudes of magnificent frigate birds and boobies, of the brown- and blue-footed variety. However, these avian specimens are upstaged considerably by the boisterous and continually vocal sea lions. Upon first observation, via Zodiac tour, the California Sea Lion appeared comically clumsy in its attempts to maneuver about on the craggy rocks. Awkward as their terrestrial movements are, they could be seen at great heights, safe from the crashing waves, having doggedly scrambled upward with both fore and hind flippers, a trait that distinguishes otariids, sea lions and fur seals, from their phocid cousins, or true seals.
Any semblance of inelegant movement melted away the moment these creatures entered the water. As we joined them in out snorkeling gear they dove about us with astounding speed and dexterity, pausing only for the more than occasional nibble or inquisitive examination of these comparatively inept swimmers among them. Spending a significant portion of their lives under the water, sea lions have a relatively small lung capacity compared to other mammals. They only store about 19% of the oxygen they use in their lungs compared with the 51% most humans do. True seals only have an average 5% of their oxygen in their lungs. This trend is a result of necessity as divers’ lungs, be they humans, whales or sea lions, will collapse under increased water pressure, while oxygen stored in blood and muscle is relatively unaffected. We eventually departed the overly affectionate sea lions, mostly unscathed and with a better understanding as to why they have earned the Mexican moniker, Lobos Marinos, or Sea Wolves.
In typical fashion, the journey to our next destination was far from dull with the crew deploying a deep water probe in the name of science, bottlenose dolphins and a large group of mobula rays gracefully traveling on the surface, wing tips poking above the waterline. After lunch we found ourselves at Half Moon Bay, on Isla San Francisco, where we leapt ashore for kayaking or various degrees of hiking adversity ranging from strenuous to stationary. As a special treat dinner was prepared, cooked and served on the beach by the ever-adaptable and ingenuous galley. Libations, s’mores and sea lion survival stories were all shared around a cozy bonfire while we were regaled by expert raconteur William’s myths and Alberto’s jovial guitar playing. After a day as full as the rising moon we took back to National Geographic Sea Bird, serenely awaiting our return and ready to take us to the location of tomorrow’s adventure.
