Los Islotes & Isla Espiritu Santo
Sunrise found the National Geographic Sea Bird making her way south, heading toward the northernmost island in a small archipelago located just north of the San Lorenzo Canal. The 244 islands, along with miles of mainland beaches in Mexico’s Baja California, Sonora and Nayarit states, have been declared World Heritage sites by UNESCO and continue in a highly protected status, giving unspoiled access to travelers like ourselves. Just before breakfast, the National Geographic Sea Bird made a hard turn in a building northeast wind, finding protection in the lee of Los Islotes. These small rocky islets are a known rookery for a variety of sea birds and, more notably, as the most southern haul-out in the Gulf of California or Sea of Cortez, for California sea lions.
Zodiacs were lowered and preparations were made for Zodiac tours in lovely morning light. Two rounds of tours were offered, and Zodiacs made their way back and forth along the protected side of volcanic rock walls that make up Los Islotes. The upper regions of the island were home to blue-footed boobies, a lone great blue heron on its nest, several turkey vultures and the occasional group of brown pelicans in breeding plumage. Sally Lightfoot crabs dashed in and out of crevices avoiding waves, while yellow-footed gulls watched for the chance to snatch a crab, a young bird, an egg or some other opportunistic meal. The stars were the sea lions—many sleeping, some nursing their young and relaxing in the warm sunny spots along the lee of Los Islotes. Everyone with a camera enjoyed the chance to move slowly, albeit with a little bit of bounce, to capture a small scene on this tiny but very busy set of islets. The waters around the island were home to not only California sea lions but also an enormous school of sardines. Blue-footed boobies, cormorants, and brown pelicans were diving madly, trying to snag a sardine on each dive.
After our Zodiac tours, a snorkel Zodiac was tied to a local buoy that marked the outline of the territory open to snorkelers and scuba divers. This anchored platform offered a chance to enter the world of the California sea lion. A group of intrepid snorkelers braved the cool waters and had a chance to watch birds’ underwater, along with sea lions and large and small fish…all trying to make a living in the rich waters of the Gulf of California. All too soon it was time to return to the National Geographic Sea Bird, where a hot meal was a most welcome treat. During lunch our floating home began her journey south down the west side of Isla Espiritu Santo, heading for the southeast end of the island and Bonanza Bay, a well-known very large, protected body of water with miles of white sand along its beach. A variety of activities would easily fill our afternoon, until sunset, when a beach barbecue dinner would finish the evening.
Kayaking and hiking were offered in rounds. As paddlers headed out around a rocky headland, hikers headed into the desert, exploring a well-marked arroyo, investigating new plants and keeping a watchful eye for the endemic black jack rabbit. Shadows began to lengthen inland and on the beach as many of us took time to enjoy a quiet moment in this unique ecosystem. A black jack rabbit was spotted among the cactus, the setting sun lighting his large upright ears, while a tiny ghost crab with a very long shadow darted down the beach, giving a wonderful show to beachcombers.
As the sun approached sunset, the hotel staff brought all the fixings for dinner ashore and began preparations for a lovely hot meal on the beach. A campfire was lit, wine was poured, and everyone relaxed around the fire as one of our Natural History staff came forward to share a creation myth from Mexico. Stars began to fill the sky, a small thumb nail of a moon smiled from above, and the day’s wind died completely, leaving a gentle evening temperature and a lovely quiet desert by the sea to enjoy at the end of our day.
