Auke Bay
After waking up to a pink eastern sky and the hanging blows of scattered humpback whales, National Geographic Sea Bird rounded the northern tip of Admiralty Island at Point Retreat. With the Point Retreat Lighthouse in view, we headed south towards the community of Auke Bay, just north of Alaska’s state capitol, Juneau. While guests enjoyed up-close encounters with mamma black bear and her two cubs and a waddling porcupine at Mendenhall Glacier, bosun Ian and I explored a new dive site.
Peppering the mouth of Auke Bay are several islets and a score of wash rocks. Scanning the ship’s navigation charts, we decided upon a particular rock for its close access to a steep ledge. Even though the wind was blowing and the tide running, chief mate Lucy put us right onto the drop-down point and we left the quintessentially gray day for a splash of color. Below the surface, subtlety is no longer the norm. Pink, red, yellow, and purple fish seem out of place to the untrained eye, but with strong LED lights, it’s clear that the red Irish lord is perfectly camouflaged against equally-as-dazzling rocks covered in brilliantly colored invertebrates. Although we’re wearing (mostly) dry suits, thick hoods, and gloves the vibrant nature of Southeast Alaska’s marine life can rival that of tropical latitudes.
Before starting our slow ascent to the naturally aspirated world, we first looked into the abyss. Literally. Our new, unnamed rock lead us to a mystery world beyond the realm of recreational diving. A stark black horizon set against the sloping bench of rock and gravel. Just a few fin kicks away from solid-bottom security, we were over depths unimaginable and full of uncertainty. Our powerful lights illuminated the disappearing bottom as shapes and colors blurred into oblivion. Our exploration of this world is superficial and limited to the razor-thin surface waters. Only in my dreams will I be able to paint these cliffs with the colors they hold like dark secrets. Until then, we can only swim up to the edge and wonder.
