Española Island

Those who rose early for the pre-breakfast kayak outing were not the least bit sorry that they had! Today dawned clear and cool, and they were escorted by playful sea lions as they paddled vigorously along the northern coast of Española Island. Following a hearty meal we had options to snorkel and/or disembark on the glorious white beach at Gardner Bay.

The water was chilly but crystal clear and we found a variety of fish species, all kinds of invertebrates on the cliffs exposed by the extremely low tide (that large moon last night made for extra low and extra high tides yesterday and today), and the highlight: a couple frisky and friendly young sea lions.

On the startlingly fine and brilliantly white sand beach, we enjoyed observing sea lions at rest, pups nursing, teenagers pushing and playing and the huge territorial bulls on patrol. When a bull came on shore, barking and claiming his area, the smaller males fled, leaving only the females and youngsters. We were saddened by a tiny, desperate pup searching for his mother, and delighted to find a healthy newborn dragging part of his placenta still attached to his umbilical cord. He had been born last night and a lava gull and mocking birds were cleaning up the after birth. His young mother slept nearby, exhausted. No doubt by now she has recovered and he is nursing contentedly. Gardner Bay beach harbors several hundred sea lions and we enjoyed the opportunity to walk among them and watch all manner of behaviors.

The endemic Española mockingbirds were out in force, hopping among us, perching on our backpacks and feet, looking for anything edible and defending their territory. They investigate everything they see. This natural curiosity and fearlessness is necessary to survival on this flat dry and barren island where food is often hard to find.

In the afternoon we landed on a cement jetty and hiked on a rocky loop trail at Punta Suarez.