Española Island

Finishing a week-long voyage through the Galápagos on the marvelous island of Española or Hood is the best possible of “grand finales.” We had a leisurely start to the day and then several options: Naturalists Aura and Carlos escorted two Zodiacs of snorkelers on a last swim with the curious and friendly sea lions and colorful reef fish. This time everyone was successful – it is a thrill for us all when our guests are able to overcome their nervousness and master the skill of snorkeling in the deep water. What better place to learn to snorkel than in the Galápagos, where this week we have seen sea lions, rays, sharks and penguins, not just fish.

Naturalist Daniel lead two kayak trips, and those who joined him in our very stable, bright yellow boats, were delighted to paddle alongside sea turtles and sea lions. I took guests to the mile long lovely white sand beach at Gardner Bay. We strolled and relaxed, and photographed the sea lions and the cheeky endemic Española mocking birds. We were utterly charmed by the antics of week old sea lion pups who snuggled and nuzzled against their moms. There were two sea lions who took a liking to our blue beach towels. They rolled up so close and confidently to our guests that we humans were very much aware of whom the true owners of this beach were: the sea lions! No one ever tires of watching sea lions – they are immensely entertaining and charismatic. We left this gorgeous white beach, lapped by the calm turquoise ocean, with great reluctance.

The afternoon hike at Punta Suarez was equally spectacular. Three groups set out to scramble over lava boulders on a trail that took them past sea lions and reddish marine iguanas to courting Nazca boobies and dancing waved albatross. We laughed at the fluffy, molting albatross chicks. We paused to observe the blow hole and watch graceful albatross glide effortlessly above the dramatic cliffs that they use for take-off. We spotted a hawk, hunting. An adult hawk grabbed a finch and presented it to a juvenile bird. Those of us who had chosen to do a shorter walk, watched that juvenile hawk eat the finch and then try to capture a lava lizard. Mocking birds perched on Janet’s flowered hat. Fat sea lion pups rolled at our feet and sniffed my toes. I have been walking these islands for 30 years now, but the close contact and intimate wildlife experiences still thrill me to the very soul.

This was a perfect day, and an ideal end to a fabulous week in Las Islas Encantadas!