Nazca & Nazca Lines, Peru


Today we drove through barren, bone-dry desert to the inland town of Nazca. Rolling hills of varying soft, earthy colors eventually gave way to equally arid mountains and rocky, dry river beds. This region is so dry the only plant able to survive the harsh conditions collects moisture from fog. During summer rain may fall and rivers occasionally flood, which allows water to seep into the aquifer. It seems remarkable that close to the town of Nazca, various crops are growing; the secret to their success is irrigation from underground water.

Here, in the heart of the pre-Inca Nazca civilization, sophisticated pottery has been found, as well as beautiful and complex cotton textiles. Aqueducts and burial sites have been discovered beneath Nazca’s modern streets. It is likely that many more archaeological sites are hidden beneath buildings and streets of the contemporary town. We visited with a spirited man named Tobi who makes reproductions of ancient Nazca pottery, and he demonstrated for us the techniques that were probably used nearly 2,000 years ago. At a small museum we saw unusually shaped skulls; Nazca people would flatten their heads, while Paracas people to the north elongated them.

The highlight of our visit was seeing the enormous, enigmatic Nazca lines and figures from above. From small planes, we gazed down at a dozen different shapes of animals and geometric figures on a large, flat expanse of land. Hills and the world’s largest dune added 3 dimensions to the surrounding landscape. Unfortunately, the Pan-American Highway cuts right through one of the figures, but this was done before modern people were aware of the Nazca figures. Why were these lines, geometric shapes, and huge drawings made? Dr. Johan Reinhard is a highly respected researcher in this field, and even he readily admits that theories abound, but proving any is nearly impossible. We can only wonder, and ponder what inspired people to create these enormous figures on the desert floor.

We dined on a delicious lunch at a beautiful, colorful hacienda on lush grounds that were in stark contrast to the surrounding desert. After eating, several of us cooled off with a splash and a swim in the hotel’s outdoor pool. Others walked to a winding stone well that connects to a large network of underground aqueducts – built approximately 2,000 years ago. A group of birders looked for wildlife on an isolated headland, and found Humboldt penguins and South American fur seals. Back aboard the National Geographic Explorer, a beautiful pink and purple sunset ended a very full and fascinating day.