At Sea − Juan Fernandez Islands

We have been at sea since last night, on a west-southwest course towards the Juan Fernandez Islands, 360 miles from mainland Chile. Our track took us across the Humboldt Current. In the ‘Great Age of Sail’ the northward flowing current had slowed the progress of ships sailing south. The Humboldt Current did not slow us today. In spite of steady waves and some large ocean swells, the National Geographic Explorer maintained a speed of about 14 knots. While the children aboard were thoroughly enjoying the ship’s motion, staff and guests were keeping a careful watch on the bridge for marine life throughout the day. Large petrels flew low over the waves with outstretched wings, while smaller storm petrels fluttered their wings close to the wave tops.

John Francis gave an interesting presentation about his research on the Juan Fernandez fur seal, which is endemic to the remote archipelago. He told wonderful anecdotes from his 5 seasons of field research, when he was surrounded by thousands of breeding seals while camped on the shore of the rugged island. Later in the day, John gave us an introduction to the history of the islands, explaining why they are so interesting and biologically sensitive; how more than half of the plant and bird species living there are endemic.

Late in the afternoon, Max Morales, our Chilean wine expert, hosted a wine tasting of Chilean red wines. We were offered five different Chilean wines to taste, as he explained the finer points of evaluating aroma, color, and flavor. Following dinner, we had a presentation about the true story of Alexander Selkirk’s long 4 years and 4 months surviving alone on the Juan Fernandez Island now known as Robinson Crusoe Island, where we will arrive in the morning.