Walvis Bay/Swakopmund/Namibia
We glided into Namibia’s only deep-water harbor this morning to dead calm conditions with two days of exploration to look forward to. Walvis Bay sits at the southern end of Namibia’s infamous skeleton coast and is the gateway to some of the countries’ most stark, dramatic scenery. With two days in port we had options galore. We made guided tours into the “living desert” to look for scorpions and snakes, excursions on the waters of Walvis Bay in search of Great White Pelicans and Cape Fur Seals, and visits to the local townships to get a glimpse of the modest living conditions of the majority of Swakopmund’s population. With options at hand, we spread out in all directions in a variety of 4X4 vehicles. My first tour took us on a search for the “Treasures of the Namib.” Winding through a stark moonscape of ancient, highly weathered canyons, life in these parts seemed far and few between. But, as always, if you give deserts the time they deserve they will rewarded you fully. Each time we stepped out of the vehicles we were introduced to another plant, animal or natural wonder, from the harmonic “singing stones” of doloritic origin, to thick beds of lichen, to one of the plant kingdoms oldest living individuals, Welwitschia mirabilis. Welwitschia may have proved to be the crowd favorite, as not only does it survive upwards of a thousand years in the arid desert but falls in the conifer family as it generates pine-like cones in addition to a woody trunk. On top of a variety of biological curiosities it is also found in this desert and this desert alone. Everything in the Welwitschia’s life is slow yet marvelous as its Latin name (mirabilis) implies.
Back from our various sun soaked excursions we all rendezvoused in the desert once more for sunset and a starlight dinner. Miles from the nearest city light we were escorted to a remote canyon aglow with candles and firelight. After watching the sun dip below the horizon, with champagne in hand, we were serenaded by the sweet sounds of the Swakopmund youth choir. With a perfect temperature, great food, a sky full of stars and beautiful live music for a soundtrack the day could not have been more mirabilis.
