Santiago da Compostella
Like the pilgrims of old from northern Europe, we docked at La Coruna to follow the Camina Inglesa - the English Road - to Santiago. We had been guided into the harbor before dawn by the bright light of the Torre de Hercules, the oldest functioning lighthouse of the Atlantic coast, dating from Roman times. In our morning exploration of this lively city, we able to stroll beside the lighthouse and look out for our ship coming out of port. She was to spend the day re-positioning around Finistere.
An accident on the main road from La Coruna to Santiago necessitated a diversion, adding time but considerable interest to our journey as we wove our way through the Galician countryside, crowded with smallholdings, small plots of land with rich crops of cabbage, corn and the local white grape. Our guides were keen to stress the distinctiveness of their region, bagpipes not flamenco and numerous superstitions ascribed to a Celtic past.
As we approached the city, groups of pilgrims could be seen walking beside the road their distinctive staffs and scallop shell badges distinguishing them from mere tourists. For this, after Jerusalem and Rome has always been the third most important Christian pilgrimage destination, the reputed burial place of the disciple James. In Spanish history the place has emblematic significance. This north-western corner of Spain was never conquered by the Muslims, the people who had taken over the rest of the Iberian peninsular in a mere seven years and were to stay for seven centuries. From Santiago, the crusade to rid Spain of its non-Christian population began inspired by a vision of Santiago Matamoros, St James the Slayer of the Moors whose image was to be in the cathedral's north transept.
At noon, the pilgrims assembled for the daily mass that culminated in the swing of the giant incense burner, the botafumeirio, to grandiose organ accompaniment. This served as an appetizer for a splendid lunch in the former hospice, now the parador 'Hostal de Los Reis Catolicos'. Lunch was preceded by traditional dancers in the courtyards, and accompanied by singers from the local tuna troupe. After further explorations of the town's architectural highlights we returned to the ship through the dramatic granite scenery of Finistere, glistening pink in the late afternoon light. This was a frequent extension to the Pilgrim's Way for many a mediaeval pilgrim, taking the opportunity of a lifetime to see where the known world ended.
Back on board another treat awaited us: the crew had prepared a traditional Filipino buffet dinner over which to recuperate and share pilgrim tales.
Like the pilgrims of old from northern Europe, we docked at La Coruna to follow the Camina Inglesa - the English Road - to Santiago. We had been guided into the harbor before dawn by the bright light of the Torre de Hercules, the oldest functioning lighthouse of the Atlantic coast, dating from Roman times. In our morning exploration of this lively city, we able to stroll beside the lighthouse and look out for our ship coming out of port. She was to spend the day re-positioning around Finistere.
An accident on the main road from La Coruna to Santiago necessitated a diversion, adding time but considerable interest to our journey as we wove our way through the Galician countryside, crowded with smallholdings, small plots of land with rich crops of cabbage, corn and the local white grape. Our guides were keen to stress the distinctiveness of their region, bagpipes not flamenco and numerous superstitions ascribed to a Celtic past.
As we approached the city, groups of pilgrims could be seen walking beside the road their distinctive staffs and scallop shell badges distinguishing them from mere tourists. For this, after Jerusalem and Rome has always been the third most important Christian pilgrimage destination, the reputed burial place of the disciple James. In Spanish history the place has emblematic significance. This north-western corner of Spain was never conquered by the Muslims, the people who had taken over the rest of the Iberian peninsular in a mere seven years and were to stay for seven centuries. From Santiago, the crusade to rid Spain of its non-Christian population began inspired by a vision of Santiago Matamoros, St James the Slayer of the Moors whose image was to be in the cathedral's north transept.
At noon, the pilgrims assembled for the daily mass that culminated in the swing of the giant incense burner, the botafumeirio, to grandiose organ accompaniment. This served as an appetizer for a splendid lunch in the former hospice, now the parador 'Hostal de Los Reis Catolicos'. Lunch was preceded by traditional dancers in the courtyards, and accompanied by singers from the local tuna troupe. After further explorations of the town's architectural highlights we returned to the ship through the dramatic granite scenery of Finistere, glistening pink in the late afternoon light. This was a frequent extension to the Pilgrim's Way for many a mediaeval pilgrim, taking the opportunity of a lifetime to see where the known world ended.
Back on board another treat awaited us: the crew had prepared a traditional Filipino buffet dinner over which to recuperate and share pilgrim tales.
