Bayeux & Honfleur, Normandy, France


Another beautiful day! We were at sea in the morning, leisurely making our way south to Normandy. After breakfast Bob Krist gave a fascinating and funny lecture, half biography, half an odyssey through his philosophy of photography. Accompanied by exquisite pictures, many of which have appeared in National Geographic Traveler, Bob told of his personal evolution from working (and sometimes not working) actor to professional photographer with one of the most prestigious outlets for photography.

Later in the morning historian Ron Suny gave a less-funny lecture on "A New Cold War? Does It Have to Happen?" An expert on Russia and nationalism, and the author of The Making of the Georgian Nation, Ron related his own long involvement with the little country of Georgia, which recently became the center of world attention as it struggled with an invasion from Russia. In contrast to many news reports, particularly in the American press, it turns out that the war was begun by the Georgian president, Mikheil Saakashvili, who wanted desperately to regain the enclave of South Ossetia, which had rebelled and managed with Russian support to become de facto independent. The war turned out to be short and not very sweet, as the Russians defeated the Georgians, who in turn were supported by the United States.

After lunch the guests divided into two groups: one driving to Bayeux to see the famous eleventh-century tapestry (actually an embroidery) depicting the Norman invasion of Britain; the other off to the charming little fishing village of Honfleur, which has been featured in the Horatio Hornblower series of novels. Bayeux is one of those medieval towns, which somehow, miraculously, escaped the bombings and destruction of the world wars and remains a beautiful example of the architecture of an earlier millennium. The tapestry is one of the most popular historical attractions in France. Despite the large numbers of tourists, access to the tapestry is extremely efficiently organized. The line moves slowly but steadily, and each viewer is equipped with a cell-phone-like device that tells the story illustrated in the tapestry frame by frame. The tapestry is a kind of historical cartoon. William the Bastard, who earned the improved name William the Conqueror, is shown to have been the rightful heir to the English throne, but who was deceived by Harold, and set out and succeeded in conquering England in the last successful invasion of the island. After a visit to the splendid cathedral in town, guests had free time to wander about the small city, shop, taste local foods, and take pictures.

Those who went off to Honfleur, led by the intrepid Ian Bullock, explored the ancient fishing port at the mouth of the Seine. From here ships sailed as far as Newfoundland to catch cod on the Grand Banks, preserving them with salt dried from the local marshes. These expert mariners were among the first Europeans to explore Canada, and a delegation in the early 1600s founded a tiny settlement named Québec. Honfleur's medieval buildings and picturesque harbor inspired a school of painters in the early 1900s and likewise excited our photographers. A grand time was had by all, our day of culture crowned by a peaceful night's sleep at anchor in the ancient port of Caen.