Neko Harbor

It is sunny and bright this morning. The air is clear and crisp; the scenery is in sharp focus. National Geographic Endeavour is sailing through Gerlache Strait, heading to the southwest. The sun has been up for hours by the time breakfast comes and goes.

After breakfast, we enter Errera Channel, a stunningly narrow, beautiful passage between the Trinity Peninsula, projecting from the continent of Antarctica, and a series of small islands. Clogged with ice, the channel is slow going, to our viewing delight. As we approach Neko Harbor and ready to lower Zodiacs, a humpback whale surfaces just off of our port bow.

First things first – Captain Hartmann pulls back on the throttle, takes us out of gear, and we float, hoping to get more views of the whale. And views we have! For the next half hour, two humpbacks repeatedly swim directly under our bow, from one side to the other and back again, and again, and again.... They surface next to the ship as she lies still in the water so that we have to look straight down to watch as they exchange air, expelling their breath forcefully through their dual blowholes before inhaling deeply. The whales’ white pectoral flippers, approaching fifteen feet in length, glow in the water.

After our memorable whale encounter, we land at Neko Harbor, on the Antarctic continent. In the company of gentoo penguins, we explore the area, with many of our complement climbing a considerable hill to gain a magnificent view.

The afternoon finds us off of Couverville Island. Kayaks and Zodiacs are lowered, and we spend the afternoon exploring the waters surrounding the island, as well as the shoreline. Plenty of penguins are coming and going and bathing, a must after leaving the breeding area. Blue-eyed shags are on the nest and in the water. Most compelling, for many, are the icebergs, of varied shapes and hues. It is a memorable afternoon.

Recap leads to a fine dinner. But we are not yet done. After dinner, the National Geographic Explorer, which has spent the day in our area, settles nearby, and guests, crew and staff from both ships enjoy meeting, sharing experiences and exploring each others’ ships.