Deception Island

Another sunny morning in Antarctica. Amazing. After breakfast, we made our first landing of the day at Baily Head, located on the outer coast of Deception Island. The skilled Zodiac drivers were able to ferry us safely to shore through heavy swells. Tim, Lisa and other staff waded into the frigid water to grab the heaving boat and pull it up the volcanic cinder beach.

Here, approximately 100,000 pairs of chinstrap penguins nest on the volcanic slopes. The little tuxedoed fellows (and gals) were marching up and down the beach, reminding me of ants on their way to a picnic. Where are they going? One nearby group cautiously inspected the surf, a few occasionally jumped in, but most quickly retreated back to shore. Had they noticed the leopard seal cruising off shore?

Up a small valley, a king penguin was spotted, looking very out of place among his shorter cousins. Most unusual. We wondered if this was the same one we had seen earlier in the voyage. Was it lost? Blown off course? Who knows?

After many more penguin pictures, we slid back into the Zodiacs to return to the mother ship.

The National Geographic Endeavour sailed around the outer coast of Deception until reaching Neptune’s Bellows, the narrow entrance into the center of this volcanic caldera. We made our way to Whaler’s Bay, the site of the most significant whaling station remains in the Antarctic. Starting in 1906, blue, fin, and humpback whales were hunted without mercy and brought here to be processed. Thousands were slaughtered over several decades. This over exploitation eventually doomed the whaling; which was replaced by more benign endeavors.

From 1944 until 1969, the British established a scientific base here, but a volcanic eruption in 1969 resulted in its abandonment. Our Zodiacs ferried us ashore to the black cinder beach, where volcanically warmed water seeped out. Here we were given the opportunity to “swim.” A few of the guests braved the chilly waters for a quick dunk. Luckily there were plenty of warm towels and hot mulled wine to stave off hypothermia.

After lunch, we returned to shore to explore and photograph the ruins of the whaling and research stations.

In late evening, we arrived in Lindblad Cove, a beautiful icy amphitheater named for Lars-Eric Lindblad, Sven’s father, who came up with the idea of taking tourists to Antarctica.

It was most a exciting and wondrous day. What surprises could there be for tomorrow?