Bahia Blanca, Argentina

Today we arrived in a new country. After picking up a pilot early this morning we entered the port of Bahia Blanca in Argentina. As we approached the docks extensive mudflats dominated the wide open spaces. The birdwatchers on board had a good morning with sightings of snowy-crowned terns, Chilean flamingoes and the band-tailed or Olrog’s gulls – a species only found in this region.

We split into several groups to explore the pampas in Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist near Bahia Blanca. Created in 1959 to protect the flora and fauna of the pampas the park covers more than 6,000 hectares. Contrary to the popular view of the pampas as a flat and featureless landscape, the park contains a 1,134 metre peak, the Cierro Ventana, named for a 10 metre wide arch near the peak. While some opted to explore a herb garden, the more energetic set off in 4-wheel-drive vehicles to reach some of the more remote sections of the park.

We saw many of the 500 strong herd of feral criollo horses that run wild in the park. The future of these animals in the park hangs in the balance. Some people have advocated their removal because they damage the sensitive habitat by trampling, whereas the hooves of the native guanacos (one of the wild South American relatives of the Old World camels) do not damage the vegetation.

November is spring in this region, and the pampas were in full bloom. Many species of beautiful wildflowers dotted the landscape – over 400 species have been recorded in the park. Among those that we saw was a striking orchid Geoblasta pennicillata (pictured) which is endemic to the region. The plant does not have a common name in English, or even in Spanish. The lower part of the flower has evolved to resemble the female of a species of bee in order to fool male bees into ‘mating’ with the flower and thereby pollinating it.