Salvador, Brazil

Our first full day in Brazil. After reaching the dock yesterday evening we cleared customs and immigration but saw little of the town before night descended. This morning we left the ship for the first time in six days, regaining our land legs and explored the town by coach and on foot.

Originally settled as Salvador de Bahia de Todos os Santos in 1549, it became the capital city of Brazil, a status which it held until 1763. Today it is the capital of the state of Bahia and has a population of 1.5 million.

Our first stop was to be at the lighthouse, overlooking the Atlantic and the ocean which we have so recently crossed from Cape Verde. This is the same route that would have been taken by slaves transported from Africa to the New World. Today we saw how their culture and traditions have fused with those of the European settlers to form the modern Brazil.

Brazil is the largest Catholic country in the world and in Salvador it seems impossible to look in any part of the skyline without seeing church bell towers (pictured). It is said that there are 365 churches in Salvador, one for every day of the year, although the true number is a little less than 200. We visited some of the magnificent churches of the region, resplendent with ornate gilt work. In these churches there is evidence of the blend of Catholicism and African religions. Upon arrival from Africa, slaves were forcibly converted to Catholicism. However, they continued to practice their own religions, aligning their deities and beliefs with those of the Catholic Church. Fort example, the god Oxala, a good spirit, is thought of as Jesus. This blend, known as candomblé, was once outlawed by the church but is now condoned.

At lunchtime our numbers were swelled by a further 40 guests who have joined us for this voyage down the coast of Brazil, Uruguay and Argentina. In the evening we returned to town for a display of local dancing, including the capoeira. Developed by African slaves, this martial art in the form of dance originated when they were banned from fighting. Late in the evening we cast our lines and headed south to further explore this fascinating country.