Right Whale Bay & Elsehul, South Georgia
In a week when it seemed that everything was going to plan, if not better than we might have dreamed, our last day on South Georgia reminded us that sometimes nature is still in charge. It wasn’t the weather which has not lived up to the fearsome reputation and remained as perfect as it has been all week. No, today the testosterone charged Antarctic fur seal asserted its authority as beachmaster.
Plan A for this morning was a landing in Right Whale Bay. The fearless expedition staff were deposited on a wave-washed beach to set up the landing, only to return to the Zodiac a few minutes later slightly fearsome. The hasty retreat was caused by a large number of belligerent bull fur seals, which having claimed a territory on the beach to await the arrival of the females, were not prepared to give way to the arrival of visitors from the Endeavour.
So, time for Plan B – Zodiac cruise around the bay. The views of the snow-capped peaks were beautiful, the wildlife was abundant and viewing the fur seals from a distance preferable to the close encounters onshore. Afterwards we relocated to Elsehul for a cruise of the albatross colonies (three species here – grey-headed, black-browed and light-mantled sooty), macaroni penguins and, of course, more seals.
The north-west of South Georgia is the stronghold of the Antarctic fur seal. The population was almost driven to extinction by a sealing industry that exported 1.2 million skins between 1786 and 1825. A few thousand animals survived the slaughter and the population has rebounded in spectacular fashion. Today the population of these animals may exceed 2 million and they crowd the beaches at this time of year when pupping and mating is about to peak.
This afternoon we departed South Georgia bound for the Falkland Islands, each with our own impressions of this extraordinary place. We have been well rewarded for having the confidence to commit to a whole week exploring the riches of South Georgia.
In a week when it seemed that everything was going to plan, if not better than we might have dreamed, our last day on South Georgia reminded us that sometimes nature is still in charge. It wasn’t the weather which has not lived up to the fearsome reputation and remained as perfect as it has been all week. No, today the testosterone charged Antarctic fur seal asserted its authority as beachmaster.
Plan A for this morning was a landing in Right Whale Bay. The fearless expedition staff were deposited on a wave-washed beach to set up the landing, only to return to the Zodiac a few minutes later slightly fearsome. The hasty retreat was caused by a large number of belligerent bull fur seals, which having claimed a territory on the beach to await the arrival of the females, were not prepared to give way to the arrival of visitors from the Endeavour.
So, time for Plan B – Zodiac cruise around the bay. The views of the snow-capped peaks were beautiful, the wildlife was abundant and viewing the fur seals from a distance preferable to the close encounters onshore. Afterwards we relocated to Elsehul for a cruise of the albatross colonies (three species here – grey-headed, black-browed and light-mantled sooty), macaroni penguins and, of course, more seals.
The north-west of South Georgia is the stronghold of the Antarctic fur seal. The population was almost driven to extinction by a sealing industry that exported 1.2 million skins between 1786 and 1825. A few thousand animals survived the slaughter and the population has rebounded in spectacular fashion. Today the population of these animals may exceed 2 million and they crowd the beaches at this time of year when pupping and mating is about to peak.
This afternoon we departed South Georgia bound for the Falkland Islands, each with our own impressions of this extraordinary place. We have been well rewarded for having the confidence to commit to a whole week exploring the riches of South Georgia.
