Cedro Caño, Sapuena Village & Supay
Last night we left behind the Marañon River and started sailing up the Ucayali River. In this area, there is little terra firme. Thus, the river will go over the banks covering nearly all of the land for a few months. The water is currently rising, allowing access by skiff that wouldn’t be possible even just a few weeks ago. For us, this is a time of great exploration. For the local people, a big change is coming to their lives, but one that happens every year.
An early morning skiff ride entered the narrow channel of Cedar Creek. A black water stream, it seemed like we were gliding through a stream of Guinness stout. The stream opened into a large flooded area that was spectacular. Many trees were in flower, and the various colored flowers fell into the water leaving multihued trails. One large group of squirrel monkeys was extra energetic this morning, performing some large leaps.
After breakfast, we visited the small community of Sapuena. Here we walked through the village, learning about daily life and visiting the school. When the water is low, they grow rice on the banks and catch large amounts of fish. As the water rise, they must get the harvest in before the crops go under and prepare for a gigantic change. At times, most of the village will go under, with only their sidewalk and houses on stilts being above the water. What an amazing time it must be to have each house be nearly an individual island.
For the afternoon, a threatening thunderstorm passed and we explored another tributary either by skiff or kayak. Here, the waters of the Ucayali were pushing deep into the stream, turning the blackwater white. Wildlife didn’t seem to mind the change with more squirrel monkeys and some dusky titi monkeys being spotted. A brilliant turquoise plum-throated cotinga was stunning, and a nesting pair of toucans were comical, poking their large beaks out of a hole.
Returning back to the Delfin II, the parade of logs and debris going downstream signaled the continued rise in the river, and the incredible changes that it brings.
