Rio Ucayali: Cedro Caño, Cedro Isla and Yanallpa
Waking up with the Amazonian rain forest is an experience to be treasured. Today, early risers set off by skiff and kayak to explore Cedro Caño, a beautiful small creek that flows into the Ucayali River. For a while, at this high-water season when the rivers are in full flood, the Ucayali actually flows into Cedro Caño rather than the other way around; we could see its silt-rich waters around us. But after wending our way along, we suddenly realized that the rich greenery was reflecting into dark, black waters. Cedro Caño had reclaimed its course toward the Ucayali.
The Delfin II moved a bit further upriver as we ate breakfast, stopping at the community of Cedro Isla. Of those of us aboard, crew and guest alike, only our guide Adonai had been here before. It turned out to be a fascinating stop. Cedro Isla is a small community of just one hundred or so people (or so we gathered from asking some of its inhabitants). Its stilted houses are set along a paved walkway that curves away from the riverbank in graceful arches.
Seeing the daily pace of a place, particularly when that place has not orchestrated itself for presentation, is a real privilege. We walked through Cedro Isla with our guides and learned a bit about life along the river, where electricity is an occasional luxury and closed doors a rarity. By the end of our visit, a gang of children had gathered. They were as curious about us as we were about them, some with a wariness and others with a receptivity that felt incredibly generous. As is true everywhere, showing people images of themselves from the back of a camera opens conversations.
Our afternoon was spent exploring the narrow channels of the Yannalpa. It was perhaps the most amazing skiff ride that has ever occurred in the history of skiff rides in the Amazon. Perhaps I exaggerate, but not by much. The wildlife seemed to just keep topping itself: monkeys, toucans, macaws, caiman lizards—we didn’t know where to look. And that’s not even mentioning the phenomenal bromeliads and the maze of vines. All came back with that glow of people who know that they’ve had an experience that is unique, amazing, and to be remembered. The evening light punctuated our emotions with a gorgeous sunset followed by an equally stunning moonrise…it’s hard to imagine a more wonderful day.
